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Ossa Mountain  British Columbia   #742
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges

Height: 2261 m -> 7418 feet
Prominence?: 176 m  
Line Parent?: Pelion Mountain (0.8 km away, at bearing 80 degrees)
Greater Parent: Pelion Mountain (0.8 km away)

Location:   49.86325,-123.36722     49:51:48, -123:22:02   10U 473608 5523491 (19 km SE of Falk Lake). (19 km NW of Brackendale). NTS Mapsheet: 092.G.14   AreaCode: EM93/ID66
First Ascent: 1960 R. Chambers; J. Bryan; H. Rode
Ossa and Ossa East Peak from Pelion
Located in the north of the Tantalus Range, Ossa Mountain differs markedly from its close neighbour Pelion Mountain in that its north face is to alpine climbing what Pelion's is to skiing. The rock is predominantly granodiorite and well suited to climbing. Its steep north faces remain cold throughout the year - ice can be encountered most of the year. The main summit is guarded by a notch on both the east and west sides. The western notch can be scrambled through and the eastern notch is negotiated with a rappel and/or low-5th climbing. The first ascent party called the eastern subsummit on the far side of the notch the "East Peak". The highest point on the main summit is very close to the East Peak and the east notch. Normal approach is via Sigurd Creek Trail although the original ascent in 1960 was from Zenith-Tantalus col.

The northeast face is a steep glacier that is protected in late summer by an increasingly difficult bergschrund. It is also likely that its east ridge was climbed on the first ascent of Ossa Mountain because the party negotiated the gap between the eastern and main summits. A sinuous north ridge also connects to the East Peak and was climbed in 2001.

The west ridge is the standard scramble and descent route. A prominent north-west buttress can also be used to access the ridge, with varying degrees of difficulty depending on the route.

There are no known climbing routes on the south face of the mountain. Unfortunately, due to its angle and intervening ridges, no one except Clowhom River loggers has ever seen it. The only feasible approaches are via vertical snot in Clowhom River or dropping down from Ossa's W ridge or Pelion's south ridge. Clearly, this is an ultimately masochistic endeavour for half bush apes, half climbers. There is a shallow glacier in a deep hole at the base of the south face with an equally uninviting lake with permanent icebergs.

All first ascents and variations were accomplished by hiking all the way in from the Squamish River.

Name Notes: From Neal Carter's "Early Climbs in the Tantalus Range": Legendary Mt. Ossa in Thessaly is the one upon whose summit the giants piled Mt. Pelion in an effort to attain the summit of Mt. Olympus, home of the Greek gods.

Route Summaries exist for this mountain, but are only available to paid members.

Trip Reports within 1 km
44 2016.08.13 New Routes and First Ascents in the Ossa Region Nicholas Gobin
40 2015.06.28 Pelion Mountain in a day Sara Kuitunen
39 2006.08.12 Tantalus High Traverse: Sigurd Creek to Lake Lovely Water Doug Brown (Vancouver)
50 2002.09.21 Pokosha-Sigurd Creeks traverse, Pelion Mountain climb Paul Kubik
29 2001.07.07 Ossa Mountain - North Ridge Yanik Berube
18 2000.09.24 Ossa Mountain Northwest buttress Route Pierre Signore
12 1999.04.28 Ossa Mountain - new route on North Face Drew Brayshaw
64 1994.07.15 Clowhom to Ashlu Traverse, and Ossa West Ridge Norm Schmidt
33 1993.03.20 Ossa Mountain West Ridge Route Paul Kubik
19 1968.04.04 Pelion - Skitour auf den Mt. Pelion (Deutsche) Paul Kubik
26 1968.04.04 Pelion Mountain, North Ridge - first ascent (1968) Paul Kubik
12 1900.01.01 Ossa Mountain Northeast Face Route Paul Kubik
13 null Ossa Mountain Climbing Routes Route Paul Kubik
11 null Ossa Mountain East Ridge Route Paul Kubik
12 null Ossa Mountain North Face Route Paul Kubik
11 null Ossa Mountain North ridge Route Yanik Berube


Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
17 Ossa and Ossa East Peak from Pelion Steven Harng
11 Mts. Pelion and Ossa from Tricouni Meadows Alan Nurmeste
8 Ossa Mountain North Face Nicholas Gobin
7 Mount Ossa's North Face Andrew Rennie
5 Ossa - Northeast Aspect Jeremy Frimer
4 Ossa Mountain - East Side Fred Touche

Placename Photos
10 Northern Tantalus Range 90 Degree Panorama Paul Kubik
9 Tantalus from Ossa Summit Nicholas Gobin
8 Mount Steele Hut Klaus Haring
8 Ossa East Peak from Base of Ossa NE Face Steven Harng
6 North Ridges of Ossa Mountain Steven Harng