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Mount Dione  British Columbia   #738
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges

Height: 2589 m -> 8494 feet
Prominence?: 129 m  
Line Parent?: Mount Tantalus (0.2 km away, at bearing 355 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Tantalus (0.2 km away)

Location:   49.81583,-123.32917     49:48:57, -123:19:45   10U 476319 5518207 (24 km SE of Falk Lake). (14 km NW of Brackendale). NTS Mapsheet: 092.G.14   AreaCode: EM93/ID12
First Ascent: 1916 T. Fyles; J. Fyles
Dione South Face
Mount Dione is located immediately south of Mount Tantalus, less than 1/3 km away. It is a class 3 rock climb by its easiest route from the southeast divide. It is so close to Mount Tantalus it could be classed as a subpeak, except for its popularity. It was first climbed by the legendary Tom Fyles of the BCMC by the southeast ridge.

Name Notes: One version of Greek mythology provided to the encyclopedia has Dione as the partner of Zeus, the king of the gods. Since the wife of Zeus was normally the goddess Hera, it is thought that Dione is an older figure than Hera. From Neal Carter's "Early Climbs in the Tantalus Range", Tantalus was the king of Lydia, a part of the region in Asia Minor then as now known as Ionia. His name signifies "lurching" or "most wretched" and gave rise to our word "tantalize" because of his fate. He and his wife Dione had a son Pelops and a daughter Niobe, and a grandson Thyestes through Pelops. Among the cruel and ungentlemanly acts of Tantalus, he disclaimed all recollection of having been entrusted by Pandareus with the safekeeping of a golden mastiff dog, and kept it for himself. In retribution for his misdeeds, Tantalus was condemned by the gods to various fates.


1. SE Ridge (1916) T Fyles, J Fyles. Class 3. Normally approached from Serratus-Dione col via the west-facing Dione Glacier. Alternatively, the entire ridge is traversed from the col by staying on the crest. From the glacier, the last couloir before the West Buttress is often used to regain the SE Ridge below the summit tower (at least one fatality is attributed to a fall into its bergschrund - beware). Alternatively, easier snow ramps can be used further back. The route is a rock scramble beyond the couloir. Dione Glacier is a fast descent on skis.
2. West Face (September 1996) Don Serl, Greg Foweraker, Peder Ourom. TD/TD+ 5.10b, A2. Reached from the base of the main couloir separating Tantalus and Dione on the west side (Dione Couloir). Climb 300m up the righthand gully feeding into Dione Couloir near its base. The route gets onto the 400m rock face from a prow of rock jutting out of a large snowfield in the gully. Intricate climbing zig zags towards the right over a couple of terraces. Climb predominantly up and left below a steep wall to an alcove. Points of aid lead to a 5.10 slab then more ledges and a crest to possible bivy ledges on easier ground about two-thirds up. A 5.9 pitch above the ledges is followed by easier 4th & 5th climbing. {Ref: Alpine Select (2001), p. 166}
 

3. West Face Direct (September 2000) Howie Zwecker, Michael Spagnut. TD/TD+ 5.10b, A1. A more direct variation of the original West Face route.
 

4. Cheech and Chong (West Buttress) (July 2002) Connie Ameluxen, Jamie Chong. IV, 5.10c. The route is 17 pitches. It is left of the two west face routes at the edge of the big couloir (Dione Couloir). This is more or less the route that Paul Starr and Fred Douglas attempted in the 1970's. Paul was liebacking up a big block when it came off and sent him for a huge whipper. The route name "Cheech and Chong" is a reference to two 1970s comedians largely using the dope-smoking culture as the basis of its act. Equipment: Free rack, ice gear for approach. Only 1 piton was placed.

Trips within 1 km
53 2015.05.02 Tantalus Traverse in a day Ryan Allderman
39 2006.08.12 Tantalus High Traverse: Sigurd Creek to Lake Lovely Water Doug Brown (Vancouver)
48 2004.07.15 Tantalus Range: Alpha, Dione, Serratus, Pelops, Niobe Steph Durocher
49 2004.07.01 Tantalus North Ridge from Sea Level Todd Ponzini
55 1998.08.20 Attempt of Mount Dione in the Tantalus Range from the Sunshine Coast Norm Schmidt
72 1997.06.06 Tantalus Range Ski Traverse Paul Kubik
61 1989.09.03 Rumbling Glacier High Route to Mount Tantalus SE Face Paul Kubik

Comments
2004.01.01 Proof from old Mtn record field Drew Brayshaw
 

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
12 SW Side of Dione Conny Amelunxen
8 Dione South Face Andrew Wong
7 Mount Dione from the South Norm Schmidt

Placename Photos
15 Tantalus and Dione from the East Stephen Skog
5 Mount Tantalus and Dione from the Garibaldi Lake Trail Lucas Earl
4 Hat Mountain Serguei Okountsev
4 Tantalus Range from Mount Varley Natasha Gellatly