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Alpha Mountain  British Columbia   #737
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges

Height: 2302 m -> 7552 feet
Prominence?: 372 m  
Line Parent?: Serratus Mountain (1.9 km away, at bearing 261 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Tantalus (4.6 km away)

Location:   49.79556,-123.27583     49:47:44, -123:16:33   10U 480148 5515937 (24 km SW of Garibaldi Lake). (10 km W of Brackendale). NTS Mapsheet: 092.G.14   AreaCode: EM93/HC97
First Ascent: 1914 B. Darling; A. Morkill
Alpha Mountain - Northeast Side
Alpha Mountain hovers above the north side of Lake Lovely Water, 5 km west of the lower Sqamish River. Several fine rock routes exist on the mountain's north side. The easiest way to the summit is from the southwest on heather and scree.

1. East Ridge (1916) Tom Fyles, J. Fyles. 5.8 AD-. Approach the east ridge by bushwacking north through mature forest from the Tantalus Hut. A few 3rd class moves are needed to gain the ridge crest at it's eastern end. There is a good campsite here. Continue up the glacier on the N side of the ridge to a prominent notch. Climbing out of the notch is the crux, a short steep 5.8 hand crack and then another short pitch of 5.4. Above, the ridge is a pleasant mix of 3rd and 4th class on very solid rock. Descending the route is the most straightforward way down.
2. SW Ridge (1914) Basil Darling, A Morkill. Class 3. Approach via Lambda Lake trail from Tantalus Hut. Veer north from the Russian Army Camp (directly below Serratus-Ionia basin) to the Serratus-Alpha col. Climb initially loose rubble to gain the SW Ridge, which is followed to the summit. Parties ascending the East Ridge sometimes downclimb the SW Ridge to return to the Tantalus Hut.
3. South face Class 4-5. Several variations exist. There is a prominent snow gully on the right side of the face. A spur or buttress reaches over halfway up the face to its left. On the far left, long snow slopes lead almost to the summit crest. Late in the season the snow routes will melt out and provide class 4-5 rock climbing.
4. NW Ridge (1969) Fred Douglas, Paul Starr. Class 4-5. Reached by dropping down about 200m north from Alpha-Serratus col and traversing to where the ridge steepens next to the glacier on the north side of Alpha. Alternatively, traverse along glaciers from the east ridge of Alpha. There is a prominent gendarme halfway up that involves class 5 to traverse or it can be bypassed (presumably easier). The gendarme has been climbed in a direct line from the glacier- Guide Buttress, to 5.7 (FA: H Bluer, C Cairns, M Down, J Simpson, June 27, 1978).
5. NE Ridge (1968) R Cuthbert, A Purdey. Class 4-5. Gain the rib between the two glaciers on Alpha's north side from the east ridge. The lower portion below the head of the glaciers can by bypassed by traversing high. Above the high traverse it is mainly class 4, below it is class 5.
6. North buttress (August 23, 1981) B Fairley, D Serl. mid 5th. Take the high traverse from the east ridge. At the central buttress, the route begins on its east side, right of gully/chimney. Five pitches on fine rock.

Trips within 1 km
28 2016.07.04 Niobe without Pelops. Alpha: Gunn with glacier. Matthew Stockinger
41 2010.07.24 Alpha in a day David Collings
40 2010.07.11 Lake Lovely Water, Pelops, Serratus. July 2010 Matthew Stockinger
35 2006.08.18 Scrambled on Mount Alpha - Lake Lovelywater Tom Tiedje
39 2006.08.12 Tantalus High Traverse: Sigurd Creek to Lake Lovely Water Doug Brown (Vancouver)
48 2004.07.15 Tantalus Range: Alpha, Dione, Serratus, Pelops, Niobe Steph Durocher
38 2003.08.19 Alpha-Serratus Traverse Stephen Ziff
39 2003.08.06 Alpha By Bike (Self-Propelled) Damien McCombs
61 1989.09.03 Rumbling Glacier High Route to Mount Tantalus SE Face Paul Kubik

2014.09.09 East Ridge Approach and Descent Ryan Allderman

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
13 Lake Lovelywater Cable Crossing Jason Addy
12 Alpha Mountain - Northeast Side Stephen Skog
8 East Ridge of Alpha - Panorama Vida Morkunas
8 Alpha and Serratus Fred Touche
6 Alpha Mountain Tim Gage
6 Sedgwick to Omega from Lapworth Simon Chesterton
4 Alpha Mountain Reflected in Lake Lovely Water Alexander Westbye
4 Alpha Mountain from Squamish Valley Adrien Dim
3 Alpha through Niobe Summit Cairn Grant Baldwin

Placename Photos
14 Cloudburst from Tricouni Steve Sproule
10 Northern Tantalus Range 90 Degree Panorama Paul Kubik
8 Whirlwind Peak from below the Refuse Pinnacle Lucas Earl
7 The Black Tusk from Flute Summit Lucas Earl
5 Full moon over Alpha and Serratus Marek Labecki
4 Tantalus Range from Mount Varley Natasha Gellatly
4 Sunset over the Tantalus Mountain Range Scott Fiddes
4 Panorama of the Tantalus Range from the Squamish Highway Michael Coyle
1 Getting Dropped Off in the Tantalus Range Scott Pick