1. West Face Class 4, steep snow, rock. The West Face is reached from Red Tit hut or the Serratus-Ionia col. There is a wide gully in the middle of the face that is a straightforward line, especially early in the season when substantial snow climbing is possible. Rocky walls either side offer up other possibilities although fractured and loose. Difficulty varies - up to mid-5th.
2. South Face - SE Buttress 5.6. The South Face reportedly sports several routes. The SE Buttress is the easternmost buttress on the face. Gain the buttress from the Serratus-Ionia basin. The climb is up to 5.6 on reasonable rock. A direct route to the summit.
3. South Ridge Class 4. The westernmost buttress on the South Face. The buttress rises north from Serratus-Ionia col.
4. East Ridge (1916) T Fyles, J Fyles. Class 4. From the Alpha-Serratus saddle, climb the east ridge to the summit. Variations pass or bypass the first subsidiary peak to gain the gap beyond it. (1) Traverse north slopes from the saddle to bypass the subsidiary and ascend the gully beyond to the gap. This likely involves a tedious descent to Serratus Glacier. (2) Rap or downclimb from the subsidiary into the gap. (3) Traverse south slopes from the saddle without elevation loss. In early season, these are snow covered. It may be possible to reach the gap via a gully from the south.
5. North face (June 1982) R Driscoll, B Fairley, R Stair. 45-degree snow, bergschrunds, Class 4. From the Alpha-Serratus saddle, descend and traverse north-facing slopes. Ascend a snow ramp past a low line of cliffs to Serratus Glacier. Take a line through crevasses to the main tower. The highest section finishes on class 4 rock.
Trips within 1 km
28 2016.07.04 Niobe without Pelops. Alpha: Gunn with glacier. Matthew Stockinger
53 2015.05.02 Tantalus Traverse in a day Ryan Allderman
40 2010.07.11 Lake Lovely Water, Pelops, Serratus. July 2010 Matthew Stockinger
39 2006.08.12 Tantalus High Traverse: Sigurd Creek to Lake Lovely Water Doug Brown (Vancouver)
28 2005.07.03 The Route from Lake Lovely Water to the Jim Haberl Hut Blair Mitten
48 2004.07.15 Tantalus Range: Alpha, Dione, Serratus, Pelops, Niobe Steph Durocher
38 2003.08.19 Alpha-Serratus Traverse Stephen Ziff
72 1997.06.06 Tantalus Range Ski Traverse Paul Kubik
31 1996.06.03 Tanatlus Hut to Jim Haberl Hut Route Paul Kubik
61 1989.09.03 Rumbling Glacier High Route to Mount Tantalus SE Face Paul Kubik
|Subject Photos View Thumbnails|
9 View North from the Summit of Red Tusk Andrew Rennie
8 Serratus from Southeast Ramsay Dyer
8 Serratus from Jim Haberl Hut Chris Kiely
8 Serratus, Ionia and Pandareus Reflections Vida Morkunas
7 Serratus North Face Marek Labecki
7 Serratus - South Face Jeremy Frimer
6 Serratus Mountain From the Northwest Norm Schmidt
4 Camping below Serratus Mountain in the Tantalus Range Scott Pick
15 Red Tusk and Neighbours from the South Ramsay Dyer
12 Alpha Mountain - Northeast Side Stephen Skog
10 Northern Tantalus Range 90 Degree Panorama Paul Kubik
8 Fuscian Peak, Corrie Peak, and Helm Peak from Flute Summit Lucas Earl
8 Whirlwind Peak from below the Refuse Pinnacle Lucas Earl
8 Alpha and Serratus Fred Touche
7 The Black Tusk from Flute Summit Lucas Earl
5 Jim Haberl Hut and Serratus Mountain Andrew Wong
5 Full moon over Alpha and Serratus Marek Labecki
4 Tantalus Range from Mount Varley Natasha Gellatly
4 Sunset over the Tantalus Mountain Range Scott Fiddes
1 Getting Dropped Off in the Tantalus Range Scott Pick