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Ionia Mountain  British Columbia   #735
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges

Height: 2137 m -> 7011 feet
Prominence?: 137 m  
Line Parent?: Serratus Mountain (1.3 km away, at bearing 7 degrees)
Greater Parent: Serratus Mountain (1.3 km away)

Location:   49.78167,-123.30417     49:46:54, -123:18:15   10U 478103 5514400 (25 km NW of Mountain Lake). (11 km W of Brackendale). NTS Mapsheet: 092.G.14   AreaCode: EM93/HD80
First Ascent: 1949 I. Kay; H. Genschorek
Ionia Mountain is a rocky ridge located above the "Russian Army camp" in the cirque south of Serratus above Lake Lovely Water. The standard route to Red Tit Hut, Mount Dione and Mount Tantalus goes across the Serratus-Ionia col. All summit routes involve Class 4 scrambling.

Name Notes: Ionia is marked on the federal 92 G/14 map as the more northerly of two evenly high, adjacent summits along the divide north of Pandareus. Culbert (1974) ascribes Ionia to the more southerly of the two. The Kafers' ascent of Ionia from the north appears to treat the more northerly summit as a gendarme on the main N divide, while the original ascent party climbed Ionia from its col with Pandareus with no mention of a gendarme. It seems likely that the true summit is actually the more southerly of the two. TRIM shows south peak as the surveyed summit.

1. SE Ridge (1949) Ian Kay, H Genschorek. Class 3-4. From Pandareus-Ionia col, follow lower and slabby part of SE corner or bypass it on the south. Continue over loose rock to summit. Takes 1 hours from the col.
2. West Buttress (1969) Dick Culbert, Alice Culbert. Class 4. Drop down from Serratus-Ionia col to its west side or backtrack from the Red Tit Hut. Traverse south on a major ramp on the west side of the divide to reach the West Buttress. Five leads, mainly pleasant. Takes 2 1/2 hours up. A tower on the buttress provides a presumably spurious diversion- a lead of class 4 from the uphill notch.
3. North side (1961) Jack Bryan, Jim Craig, Martin Kafer, Ester Kafer. Class 3-4. A convoluted route. It begins from the glacier south of Serratus at the lowest rock descending from the main divide north of Ionia. This is termed a NE rib. Follow its crest to a gendarme and 100m beyond it, traverse a wide ledge on the rib's east face then return to the rib's crest up a class 4 wall. Climb a second (last?) gendarme on ridge (rib or divide?) over slabs and blocks, then west face. Continue up N divide of Ionia (presumably heading south) on fairly good rock. Takes 4 hours from base. (If someone ever repeats this, please provide some clarification.)

Trips within 1 km
53 2015.05.02 Tantalus Traverse in a day Ryan Allderman
39 2006.08.12 Tantalus High Traverse: Sigurd Creek to Lake Lovely Water Doug Brown (Vancouver)
61 1989.09.03 Rumbling Glacier High Route to Mount Tantalus SE Face Paul Kubik


Subject Photos   View Thumbnails

Placename Photos
9 View North from the Summit of Red Tusk Andrew Rennie