1. Over the Top of NorthTwin Nowdays, the standard route is to go over the top of north Twin, then descend through crevasses to the col. From there it is straightforward but somewhat exposed.
2. North Twin Bypass on East (1938) Fritz Wiessner, and party. Their route was to traverse around the east side of North Twin on a snow terrace, thus saving the elevation gain going over the top of N Twin.
3. North face (House/Preszelj) (2004.04.07) S. House, M. Preszelj. hard. The third ascent, by the third route, of what is considered one of, if not the, hardest wall in the Rockies. Top alpinists House and Preszelj climbed the 1500m route over 4 days marred by House losing his plastic boot shell at the second or third bivi. The route climbs the concavity between the unrepeated 1974 Lowe/Jones and 1985 Blanchard/Cheesemond routes on rock, snow and ice and features hard mixed and ice climbing. The line joins the Lowe/Jones for the upper pitches. Postholing 14 miles out to the road via the Columbia Icefield was also apparently a crux.
Equipment: full on alpine rack