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Ashlu Mountain  British Columbia   #722
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Ashlu-Elaho Divide

Height: 2561 m -> 8402 feet
Prominence?: 1183 m above Deserted-Elaho Pass
Line Parent?: Mount Tinniswood (33.5 km away, at bearing 322 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Boardman (44.9 km away)

Location:   50.07611,-123.54916     50:04:34, -123:32:57   10U 460705 5547238 (14 km S of Blanca Lake). (42 km W of Whistler). NTS Mapsheet: 092.J.04   AreaCode: FM03/AF74
First Ascent: 1963 J. Denton; J. Pringle
Ashlu Mountain
Ashlu Mountain is a prominent pyramid on the Ashlu-Elaho divide. The mountain is made up of both scree slopes and solid rock buttresses. The normal route is up Shortcut Creek from Ashlu Main logging road in the Ashlu Valley. Flagged routes follow both sides of Shortcut Creek. From the open basin south of the peak, scramble up pleasant, polished granite to the cirque below a hanging glacier, then head north up a scree gully to Ashlu's southeast buttress. Climb along the southeast buttress (Class 2-3) to a col on Ashlu's east ridge, then follow the east ridge to the summit.

The East Peak, located 800 m east of the main summit, is an impressive granite summit with steep rock faces and ridges.

Name Notes: Ashlu Creek adopted 1 August 1922 on BC map 2D, Powell Lake, not "Ashloo Creek" as spelled on BC map 2B, 1914. Origin/significance not known.


1. East Ridge (1963) J. Denton, J. Pringle. Class 2-3. From Ashlu Main at Shortcut Creek, hike up the south side of the creek on a well beaten track to a waterfall near the head of the valley. Ascend to a small lake located about 1 kilometer SSE of the summit, via a rock outcrop and gulley. This lake is sometimes covered with snow and ice and not visible on maps. Gain the ridge to the east via a weakness on its south end, and scramble up this, avoiding a steep part near the top, to the northwestern edge of the relatively large glacier draining the southeastern slopes of Ashlu. Its best to skirt around the top (northern) side of the glacier to a point 50 or so meters from the col, and begin scrambling up along the ridge on relatively good talus, some loose rock. Traverse over the sub peak immediately east of the summit and scramble up the east ridge of the summit pyramid, on rock ranging from solid granite boulders to loose scree in places. Bypass a steep narrow part of the ridge by going left slightly.
2. West Ridge (1972) J. Clarke. Class 3. The SW ridge curves into the west ridge. Reach the col 800m NW of Ashlu Peak, usually via Rugged Lake. Climb a steep snow gully to intersect the W ridge past the gendarmes of the connecting SW ridge. Scramble along the crest of the west ridge to the summit.
3. South face (1983) D. Serl, D. McNab. Class 5.8-5.9. Reach the base of the south face directly from Shortcut Creek via steep snow gullies and the steep south face glacier, or cross over the SW ridge from Rugged Lake. Climb left of the indistinct SE buttress for six pitches, then angle left for two pitches into the headwall of the central gully.
4. SE Buttress (2002) C. McGee, B. Phillips. mid 5.10. Right of the Serl/McNab south face route on the vague SE buttress of Ashlu. The route has 5 or 6 long pitches (all 60m) plus some scrambling. The route is rated mid 5.10 in difficulty. Take RPs.{References: (1) Route book at Climb-On Equipment in Squamish, (2) MEC route book shows topo.}

Trips within 1 km
33 2004.07.04 South Face of Ashlu Jesse Mason
47 2002.12.7 The Good, the Sweet, the Ashlu Mountain Stewart Douglas
51 2001.10.05 Ashlu Mountain - via Shortcut Creek and the East Ridge Don Funk
11 1999.07.17 Ashlu: The Mingo Memorial Raid Phil Hammer
42 1982.05.08 From Amicus to Ashlu on skis Klaus Haring

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Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
19 Ashlu Mountain Stewart Douglas
12 Ashlu Mtn via Shortcut Ck Paul Kubik
10 Ponor to Pykett - An Ashlu Panorama Paul Kubik
10 Ashlu Mountain from Chimai David Campbell
8 East Ridge of Ashlu Mountain Klaus Haring
8 Ashlu Mountain from the Air Scott Pick
8 South Face of Ashlu Jesse Mason
5 Ashlu Mountain, Limelight Peak from Mount Crerar Paul Kubik
5 Ashlu Mountain - East Ridge Don Funk

Placename Photos
14 Ponor Peak and Mount Crerar Don Funk
8 Labeled Panorama Southwest from Whirlwind Peak Lucas Earl
7 Glacier View Stewart Douglas
6 Ashlu - Elaho Divide Don Funk
5 Ashlu East Peak from Ashlu Mountain Alexander Westbye