Mount Callaghan British Columbia #703
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
Height: 2409 m -> 7904 feet
Prominence?: 914 m above Soo-Squamish Pass
Line Parent?: Famine Peak (15.2 km away, at bearing 349 degrees)
Greater Parent: Overseer Mountain (34.4 km away)
Location: 50.22778,-123.26583 50:13:40, -123:15:57 10U 481039 5563991 (6 km NW of Callaghan Lake). (25 km NW of Whistler). NTS Mapsheet: 092.J.03 AreaCode: FM03/CC26
First Ascent: 1945 J. Booth; A. Dellow; T. Fallowfield; L. Harrison; E. Henderson
|A glaciated summit on the Squamish-Cheakamus Divide, drained by Callaghan Creek, Ring Creek, Soo River, and the Squamish River. The summit has good 360 degree views and is an outstanding patch of bare rock above extensive meadows and glaciers. |
In the spring of 1999, a crack was observed across Callaghan's summit ridge and sometime in the year 2000 a portion of the summit collapsed. The height of the mountain has thus been reduced by a few meters to 2409m. As of 2009, there remains a sharp and impossible to climb tower just a few meters north of the summit. This tower appears to be the summit when approaching from the west via the connecting ridge. Fortunately it is a meter or two lower than the main summit. It is separated from the main summit by a deep vertical gash.
Name Notes: This peak was named in 1914 after John Callaghan, Chief Engineer for PGE Railway during construction of their line, 1912-15, and who had helped with the selection and verification of names for BC Lands map 2B, 1914. Afterwards Callaghan was with Alberta Government Railways.
1. Access from S-500 road on spring snow Steep snow slopes. A pleasant trip through forest from S-500 off of the Squamish Mainline past the south side of Ring Mountain and then a rising traverse to the upper gully south of the western and main summits.
Equipment: Ice Axe, skis or snowshoes. Crampons may be needed for summit area.
AvgTime: 6-10 hours round trip
2. Access Via Ring Lake Trail Easiest access is from the new trail to Ring Lake, constructed in 2008. Callaghan can also be approached from S-500 road in the Squamish Valley (4x4 high clearance required).
3. Direct White Boulder Gulley From Ring Lake Class 2, no exposure, but caution on large unstable boulders. From camp at Ring lake, ascend north up through meadow and then up a continuous rock gulley over large boulders to emerge just west of the peak. The peak is visible for a long way up the route, appearing as a very steep tower. The large boulders are potentially unstable. The ascent over the boulders is tedious for 1000'.
4. From Hidden Peak From Hidden Peak (Peak 7495')an up and down ridge called "Stegosaurus Ridge" connects to the summit. It is 2 km southeast of the summit.
5. Via West Peak Stable rocks, class 3. From camp at Ring Lake, ascend north toward peak. Approach the west (false) summit itself from the west. The final 20m of the west summit is a class 3 scramble. If heading for the main peak, bypass the west summit to the left.
Trips within 1 km
66 2010.06.05 Clawing the Thin Ice: Ring-Callaghan Ski Traverse Gili Rosenberg
33 2009.09.13 Mount Callaghan Route Description via West Peak Route Robin Tivy
64 2009.09.12 Mount Callaghan via Ring Lake Steve Grant
47 2005.04.09 Mount Callaghan from the Squamish River Jordan Peters
44 2000.10.04 Hiking and Climbing on Mount Callaghan Robert Ballantyne
71 1982.04.05 The First Self Supported Pemcap Ski Traverse Klaus Haring
41 1979.08.25 Mount Callaghan Climb Klaus Haring
|Subject Photos View Thumbnails|
13 Callaghan Rock Slide (July 2000) Neil Cole
11 Callaghan and Ring Mountains Paul Kubik
9 Mount Callaghan Summit Robert Ballantyne
5 Callaghan from the South Alex Gibbs
5 Mount Callaghan Southwest Aspect Simon Chesterton
5 Funky Boardwalk on Ring Lake Trail Paul Kubik
8 Labeled Panorama Northwest (Pemberton Icefield) from Overlord Mountain Lucas Earl
6 Ring Mountain from Mount Callaghan Neil Cole