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Mount Smythe  Alberta   #6503
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Winston Churchill Range

Height: 3260 m -> 10696 feet
Prominence?: 440 m  
Line Parent?: Diadem Peak (6.5 km away, at bearing 141 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Woolley (7.0 km away)

Location:   52.35597,-117.48090     52:21:22, -117:28:51   11U 467248 5800741 (21 km E of Fortress Lake). (71 km SE of Jasper). NTS Mapsheet: 083.C.06   AreaCode: FL27/DE58
First Ascent: 1951 Gil Roberts, Chuck Wilts, Illen Wilts (CAJ 35-31)
This peak is #88 on the Height List for Alberta .A double rock summit located just northwest of Mount Nelson. The standard route is the west ridge, which involves several Class 5 pitches.

Name Notes: Named after Francis Sydney Smythe who travelled, climbed, and wrote extensively about the mountains of the world. He rose to prominence in the mountaineering community after his impressive seasons in the Alps in 1927 and 1928. After that he climbed extensively in the Himalaya and was invited to join the 1933 British Mount Everest Expedition during which he and two others reached an elevation of 28,200 feet on the north side of the mountain without oxygen. In World War II he served in the Canadian Rockies as a mountaineer training officer for the famous Lovat Scouts.

Smythe was the first to attempt to climb Brussels Peak but failed in each attempt. After the peak was climbed by 2 Americans using controversial aid he commented that he still regarded Mount Brussels as unclimbed, and my feelings are no different from those I should have were I to hear that a helicopter was to deposit its passenger on the summit of that mountain just so that he could boast that he had trodden an untrodden mountain top. Smythe himself was an impeccable climber who believed using aid degraded the art of climbing, as were most of the European climbers of the time.

Trip Reports within 1 km

2013.05.01 Height Notes Robin Tivy

Paper Maps
1:75000Columbia Icefield Gem Trek
1:400000Canadian Rockies (Explorer's Map and Guide) Gem Trek
1:600000Southwest Alberta Southeast B.C. Explorer's Map (Road Map) Gem Trek

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
9 Mount Smythe Eric Coulthard

Placename Photos
12 Winston Churchill Range Panorama from Sunwapta Peak Eric Coulthard