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Rethel Mountain  British Columbia   #644
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges

Height: 2408 m -> 7900 feet
Prominence?: 178 m  
Line Parent?: Parkhurst Mountain (1.4 km away, at bearing 125 degrees)
Greater Parent: Parkhurst Mountain (1.4 km away)

Location:   50.15408,-122.82317     50:09:15, -122:49:23   10U 512633 5555777 (17 km E of Rainbow Lake). (11 km NE of Whistler). NTS Mapsheet: 092.J.02   AreaCode: FM02/BI52
Rethel Mountain - North Face
Located in Garibaldi Provincial Park, south of Wedgemount Lake and on the west side of the Wedgemount Glacier. Rethel Mountain can be ascended by a number of routes, the easiest being those from the west. An old, overgrown logging road leaves the Wedgemount road just at the top of the first steep hill. This road can be followed for a few kilometres up to a point where it seems sensible to head off up the west side of Rethel Ridge. Reasonably straight-forward routefinding will put one onto the alpine talus in a couple of hours. This route is most easily ascended when the alpine is covered in firm snow. The north face of Rethel, located right across the lake from the hut, is a 500m wall of granite featured with buttresses and towers. Although few people come to Wedgemount Lake to rock climb, those that have have reported that this face, known as the "Wedgemount Lake Bluffs", provides superb climbing on solid rock. The highest tower on this face is typically reached by rappelling in from the top as all approaches to it from below are allegedly quite difficult.

1. "Wedge Tower" (1972) P. Rowat, R. Barley, E. Zenger, J. Oswald. 5th class. The central and obvious buttress, actually a series of towers when seen in profile. Rowat and Barley direct start took the righthand of the two lower crack systems (chimney). The route ends at a sharp tower separated from the summit pinnacle by a sharp 300' gap. Stated grade was 5.5, likely harder by today's "non-Rowat" standards. ref: 1973 CAJ. P Koedt and J Fike climbed a route on one of the westerly buttresses in 1972, "right of the one with the spectacular undercut". 5.8. Equipment: rock rack

Trips within 1 km
50 2012.10.25 Cook Mtn & Wedgemount Lake Dominique Goineau
20 2011.08.01 Weart - Southeast Ridge (with deviation from Gunn route) Tim Gage
39 2004.07.24 Wedgemount Lake and Mount Cook in July Benoit Landry
57 2004.04.9 Ski Touring near Mount Currie Mike Peel
62 2003.09.12 Soaked to the Bone on Mount James Turner Fred Touche
20 2002.09.03 Mount Cook - West Route Scott Nelson
34 2001.07.21 Weart Circumnavigated By Owls Drew Brayshaw
29 2000.10.14 Weart - Southeast Ridge Todd Ponzini
40 1980.07.05 Historic Ascent of Wedge Mountain North Arete Klaus Haring
92 1972.07.20 The Great Garibaldi Park Traverse - Part 1 Klaus Haring
25 1971.08.11 1971 Wedge from Hut Cliff Jennings


Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
11 Rethel North Face Buttresses and Couloirs Jordan Peters
7 Weart 06 Ole on Ridge above Armchair Glacier with Rethel Mtn Cliff Jennings
6 North Couloir on Rethel Mtn. Todd Ponzini
5 Rethel Mountain - North Face Fred Touche
5 Looking Down North Couloir on Rethel Todd Ponzini
4 North Buttress Of Rethel Drew Brayshaw
4 Rethel -North Face (Wedgemount Lake Bluffs) from Northeast Drew Brayshaw

Placename Photos
9 Tremor Mountain from Overlord Mountain Lucas Earl
9 Parkhurst Mountain and Rethel Mountain Fred Touche
7 Weart 12 (Wedgemont Lake & cabin) Cliff Jennings
7 Wedge Mountain and Tremor Mountain from Overlord Mountain Lucas Earl
6 Wedge Mountain from Mount Cook Lucas Earl