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Mount Sheer  British Columbia   #586
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Sky Pilot Group

Height: 1752 m -> 5748 feet
Prominence?: 207 m  
Line Parent?: Sky Pilot Mountain (2.1 km away, at bearing 334 degrees)
Greater Parent: Sky Pilot Mountain (2.1 km away)

Location:   49.61806,-123.07306     49:37:05, -123:04:23   10U 494723 5496169 (1 km NE of Mountain Lake). (11 km SE of Squamish). NTS Mapsheet: 092.G.11   AreaCode: EM93/GA17
First Ascent: 1909 C. Chapman; W. Gray; C. MacDonald. F. Perry
Mount Sheer in Winter from Col to South
Located due north of the east end of Mountain Lake, and south of Sky Pilot and Ledge peaks. A minor peak which can easily be climbed in an hour or two from the BCMC's Mountain Lake hut.

There is a steep rock wall on the south side which looks as if it has a hard 2 pitch unclimbed off width/chimney climb waiting for someone willing to drag lots of big cams on the long approach to the hut.

Access is by Furry Creek FSR.

Name Notes: Mt. Sheer also gives its name to the abandoned mining ghost town site in upper Brittania Creek. (at 49:37.4-123:08.7 on the map). At one time this site provided permanent housing for many people who worked in the upper shaft. Now all that is left of significance are building foundations and the old playing field. The map also shows a higher clearing of some sort at the head of Jane Creek.


1. Southwest Ridge Standard Route Class 4. Mt. Sheer is located directly adjacent to Mountain Lake hut and will usually be approached from there. From the hut, hike down the Utopia Lake trail then up the rockslide visible from the cabin. Climb the rockslide and meadows to somewhat northwest of the final peak. From there, head south, traversing downward just below steep rock face, and around to get onto the sharp SW ridge of Sheer. Double back, climbing north up this ridge to easier ground heading north around the final summit tower. Up to this point it is all class 2-3, but the final tower there is at least one exposed class 4 move.
2. Northeast Buttress (1963) M. Lassere, A. Shives. class 4-5. A 2 pitch route on the NE arete of Sheer leading directly to the summit. Obscure to say the least....
3. N Face (1960's) unknown, possibly M. Laserre and A. Shives. 5th class. A vague buttress or nose on the north face of Sheer is reported as giving a short 3 pitch climb. Even more obscure than the NE Buttress, this climb is reported in Culbert (1974) guide but overlooked in the 1986 Fairley guide.

Trips within 1 km
61 2013.08.06 Climbing Mount Sheer from Mountain Lake Cabin Robin Tivy
57 2007.08.04 Sky Pilot (Squamish to Britannia on foot) Dave van Zeyl
47 2006.02.18 Ski Trip to Mountain Lake Peaks Robin Tivy
34 2004.08.01 Ledge Mountain from Mountain Lake Hut Paul Kubik
34 1997.06.29 Sky Pilot and Sheer via Furry Creek Drew Brayshaw

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Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
15 Mount Sheer in Winter from Col to South Robin Tivy

Placename Photos
11 Mountain Lake (Sky Pilot Area) Simon Chesterton
6 Sky Pilot Area (labelled) from Chanter/Downing Peak Simon Chesterton
2 Mt. Sheer and Mountain Lake Hut Drew Brayshaw