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Sky Pilot Mountain  British Columbia   #582
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Sky Pilot Group

Height: 2031 m -> 6663 feet
Prominence?: 1236 m above Stawamus-Indian Pass
Line Parent?: Mamquam Mountain (23.0 km away, at bearing 47 degrees)
Greater Parent: Tremor Mountain (50.8 km away)

Location:   49.63540,-123.08623     49:38:07, -123:05:10   10U 493774 5498098 (3 km N of Mountain Lake). (9 km SE of Squamish). NTS Mapsheet: 092.G.11   AreaCode: EM93/GA38
First Ascent: 1910 Basil Darling, Hobart Dowler, Alan Morkill, J. Huggard, Grubbe (west ridge). First winter ascent December 30, 1960 Tony Ellis, Arnold Shives and Glenn Woodsworth (from Gunsight Gap)
Sky Pilot from Near Mountain Lake Cabin
Sky Pilot Mountain is the highest of a tightly knit group of jagged peaks located southeast of Squamish behind the Stawamus Chief. The easiest approach is via Shannon Creek and the easiest summit route the south ridge (Class 2-3).

Here is a list of some named but somewhat obscure subpeaks, rock towers, etc: (They are documented here, rather than as separate "peaks" in order to avoid crowding the maps.

  1. Tombstone Tower
  2. The Ledgeling
  3. The Nai

Name Notes: The term "Sky Pilot" is a term in widespread use since at least 1911, whne it was a silent film directed by King Vidor, set in California, and referring to a preacher who comes to clean up a small town. Later in 1968, there was a well known song by Eric Burdon and the Animals titled "Sky Pilot", which itself explains the meaning of "Sky Pilot". "Makes them feel happy he's a good holy man".

When Named: According to research by Glenn Woodsworth, the first ascent party in 1910 did not name the peak. At that time it was known as "The Sisters". Glenn says he's pretty sure that although the first ascent was in 1910, the name "Sky Pilot" was only applied by topographic surveyors S.C. McLean and K.G. Chipman, who climbed the peak in 1919, nine years later.


1. 2013 Summary of Access Routes Currently the most common approach is via the Shannon Creek Road. Drive to boulder blockade at 2000 feet, then hike up Habrich spur and trail and up Stadium Glacier to gain Gunsight Gap. See photo [Photo539-Sky Pilot North Side with Peak Labels].
2. South ridge class 3. From the basin SE of Sky Pilot, ascend towards Gunsight Gap, then left up a broad ramp (scree or snow) cutting under S face of Sky Pilot. Climb S ridge to gain W ridge above that route's 4th class slab crux. Climb to the summit ridge (do not traverse ledge below ridge crests shown in Fairley photo) and continue to the base of the prominent gendarme. Deke around the gendarme on the south side and easily up the gully beyond to the summit.
3. Northeast ridge (1912) Loretto Hanafin, Birdie DeBeck, Ben Hanafin, Don Munday, Edward LePage, and Frank Smith. 50 degree snow. Reach Gunsight Gap between Sky Pilot and Ledge either by hiking up a scree gully from the south. Alternatively reach the gap by climbing steep snow from the north; a snow moat may pose difficulty. From the gap, climb steep snow on the north side until an obvious route leads up to E ridge crest. Continue easily up vegetated scrambling to summit.
4. West Ridge class 3-4. The first ascent route. This route is usually approached from Shannon Creek via the Stadium Glacier. A pink slab low on the route is the crux (class 3-4), with easier climbing higher up (class 2-3). Above the crux slab, this route joins with the South Ridge route from Britannia Creek. Climb over the first gendarme on the right (or traverse left on a grassy ledge). Pass the second gendarme by a ledge on the right.

Trips within 1 km
45 2009.05.17 West Ridge - Sky Pilot Henrik Hinkkala
19 2008.08.23 Sky Pilot from Shannon Creek FSR Kurt Amundson
57 2007.08.04 Sky Pilot (Squamish to Britannia on foot) Dave van Zeyl
13 2004.10.02 North Ridge Sky Pilot via Northwest Gully, Late Season Adrian Bogen
34 2004.08.01 Ledge Mountain from Mountain Lake Hut Paul Kubik
18 2002.09.01 Sky Pilot Approach From Sky Pilot Creek Route Drew Brayshaw
11 2001.07.21 Sky Pilot from Shannon Creek Gary Sutton
23 2001.06.02 Sky Pilot from Shannon Creek Road Rob West
16 2001.04.07 Sky Pilot From Shannon Creek Richard Howard
10 2000.11.11 Wondering on Sky Pilot Steven Harng
12 2000.10.01 Sky Pilot, Southwest ridge Tom Kuczmierowski
16 1999.09.11 Sky Pilot Mountain Greg Culos
34 1997.06.29 Sky Pilot and Sheer via Furry Creek Drew Brayshaw

Comments
2015.06.24 The Nai Robin Tivy
2015.06.24 The Ledgeling Robin Tivy
2015.06.24 Tombstone Tower Robin Tivy
 

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
21 Sky Pilot from Near Mountain Lake Cabin Robin Tivy
13 Sky Pilot Group From Paul Ridge Steve Sproule
11 Sky Pilot from the Southeast Keith Freeman
11 Sky Pilot North Side - With Peak Labels Pierre Signore
10 Sky Pilot from Alpen Mountain in Spring Robin Tivy
9 Sky Pilot from the South (Late Summer) Robin Tivy
8 Sky Pilot from Anif Peak Robin Tivy
7 Sky Pilot Massif from top of West Lion Keith Freeman
6 Sky Pilot Area (labelled) from Chanter/Downing Peak Simon Chesterton
6 Sky Pilot from the Air Scott Pick
6 Sky Pilot Mountain from Gibsons Neil Cole
6 Sky Pilot from Stawamus River Road Robin Tivy
6 Sky Pilot Group From Northeast Fred Touche
5 Sky Pilot Mountain - North Face Serguei Okountsev
5 Sky Pilot and Ledge Up Close Simon Chesterton
4 Sky Pilot in winter 2015 Serguei Okountsev

Placename Photos
12 View Southwest from Diamond Head Greg Jones
11 Mountain Lake (Sky Pilot Area) Simon Chesterton
10 The Ledge on Ledge Simon Chesterton
8 NE Aspect of Anif Peak Klaus Haring
8 Looking Southwest from Sedgwick Keith Freeman
7 East Slopes of Mount Mulligan Klaus Haring
6 David Peak from Unnecessary North Peak Serguei Okountsev
4 Squamish and Sky Pilot Group from W side of Squamish River Drew Brayshaw
4 Sky Pilot, Ledge, Ledgeling, Nai - From Stawamus River Drew Brayshaw
4 Sky Pilot- West Ridge ledge traverse of doom Drew Brayshaw
3 North Face of Sky Pilot Steven Harng
3 Sky Pilot - On the West Ridge Jeremy Frimer
2 Sky Pilot Richard Howard