| This peak is #5 on the Height List for Washington . This peak is #2 in Prominence List for Washington .Mount Baker is the northernmost of the Cascade volcanoes, and is within reach of Vancouver, BC as a day trip. However, the climb is much more relaxed as a 2 day trip, and is often done as a ski trip in May or June. You can take skis right to the summit, although the last 100 m to the summit is very steep. In warm spring snow, you can ski down the steep portion, however in winter months, the slope can be quite icy and require crampons and ice axe. Some parties rope up for this slope. Lower down, there is a certain amount of crevasse danger, and the spring ski route often goes over various snowbridges. Early season crevasse danger is reduced by the huge snowfall this mountain recieves. However, in late summer large crevasses (5 meters wide) begin to open up all over the mountain, making the climbing much more challenging.|
It is the third highest mountain in the state of Washington, after Rainier and Mount Adams. It gets a lot of precipitation, and has twelve glaciers. The summit crater is completely filled with ice, providing a large summit plateau. Baker has steamed since the 1800's and there were reports in the 1860's of lots of smoke. The small summit knob is known as Grant Peak; its elevation has been charted in the subpeaks by only 5m lower as USGS maps do not give a precise measure. SSE of the summit, beyond Summit Crater, is Sherman Peak, and to the SW is Colfax Peak.
1. Colman-Deming Glacier (1868) Coleman, Termant, Bennett. Glacier travel, 35-40 degree snow. From the end of the right branch of the Heliotrope Ridge Trail ascend the Coleman Glacier to the Baker-Colfax col. From here, ascend the ridge, then swing onto the Demming Glacier and climb the Roman Wall to the summit plateau.
Distance: 2100m elevation gain
Equipment: Ice axe, crampons, glacier gear
AvgTime: 1 or 2 days
2. Coleman Glacier Headwall (1957.08.18) Cooper, Bartow, Grimlund, Nicholson. Steep snow/ice. Ascend the Coleman-Deming Glacier route to the base of the headwall at 8500 feet. Climb a long snow or ice slope, bearing right to get around rock cliffs (45-50 degree slopes).
Equipment: Glacier gear
3. North Ridge (1948.08.07) Fred Beckey, Dick Widrig, Ralph Widrig. Steep snow/ice. From the Coleman-Deming Glacier route, cross the Coleman Glacier to reach broad lower slopes of the North Ridge. Where the ridge narrows, climb 1-2 pitches of alpine ice, then ascend 40 degree slopes towards the summit, and an easing of angle.
Equipment: Ice ax, crampons, glacier gear, pickets or ice screws