Mountain Page   Home     Help   Index     Login
Mount Unwin  Alberta   #446
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Front Ranges / Queen Elizabeth Ranges

Height: 3268 m -> 10722 feet
Prominence?: 818 m above Maligne-Coronet pass
Line Parent?: Mount Brazeau (13.5 km away, at bearing 119 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Brazeau (13.0 km away)

Location:   52.61089,-117.52835     52:36:39, -117:31:42   11U 464224 5829118 (48 km SE of Jasper). NTS Mapsheet: 083.C.12   AreaCode: FL27/GF12
First Ascent: 1908 Sidney Unwin
Mount Unwin from Maligne Range
This peak is #81 on the Height List for Alberta . This peak is #86 in Prominence List for Alberta .Highest peak on the ridge which separates the Maligne River from Maligne Lake itself.

Name Notes: Named in 1908 by Mary Schaffer after Sidney Unwin who first ascended the peak and was the guide and companion of Mary Schaffer-Warren on their 1907 and 1908 pack horse trip. After numerous frustrating days of looking for Maligne Lake from a sketch map, Sid Unwin climbed the highest peak near their camp, determined to find it. After 24 hours he returned triumphant, having seen the lake from the mountain now called Mount Unwin.

Unwin was one of the most highly skilled trail guides in the Early history of the Rockies. He was born in London England but was drawn to the Rockies where he started an outfitting business. B.W. Mitchell wrote of Unwin, "Unsurpassed in woodcraft and resourcefulness, unequaled in thoughtful kindness to his party, and with the charm of courteous manner that adds the final touch of perfection to the little self-centred microcosm that a party in the wilderness constitutes."

When World War I started Unwin's sister Ethel took over his business and he enlisted in the Canadian Army and was subsequently assigned to the 20th Artillery Battery at Lethbridge. The Battery experienced its first battle action in France in January 1916 and later was part of the the Battle of Vimy Ridge.

Unwin was critically wounded after ordering all of his men back to the dugouts and manning an artillery battery by himself, firing and loading under intense fire. His Commader Lieutenant E.K. Carmichael wrote, "I was so much pleased with, and admired his conduct, that I committed the circumstances to paper at once in case of accidents, so that if anything did happen to me, the paper would bear witness." While in a military hospital Sid wrote the following before dying "Aside from having my right arm blown off, being almost stone deafened by shell fire, and having my head full of shrapnel fragments, I'm fine and dandy."

1. North Glacier Route Grade II. Involves using the boat charter service down Maligne Lake. Ascends N Glacier to Unwin-Charlton saddle (Hainsworth-Strumia route of first ascent of Charlton), then follows the E ridge to summit of Unwin. See Dougherty's Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies

Trips within 1 km
46 2016.07.02 Mounts Unwin and Charlton July 2016 Dave van Zeyl
48 2005.08.21 Mount Unwin - Canoe and NE Face Climb David Henry
79 2005.08.20 Old Goats Summer Camp 2005 : Six Peaks at End of Maligne Lake Rick Collier


Paper Maps
1:100000Jasper and Maligne Lake Gem Trek
1:400000Canadian Rockies Gem Trek
1:600000Southwest Alberta & Southeast British Columbia Gem Trek

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
18 Mount Unwin Northeast Face Route David Henry
14 Mount Unwin from Maligne Range Robin Tivy
9 Seracs high on northeast face of Mount Unwin Dave van Zeyl
9 Heavily crevassed part of north glacier on Mount Unwin Dave van Zeyl
8 North glacier of Mounts Unwin & Charlton Dave van Zeyl
8 Mount Unwin and Mount Charlton David Henry
7 Mount Unwin from the East Rick Collier
7 Unwin, Charlton, and Guess Who? Rick Collier
6 Northeast Face of Mount Unwin Rick Collier
6 Mounts Unwin and Charlton Rick Collier
6 Mount Unwin Scott Fiddes
6 Unwin Northeast Face Glacier David Henry
5 Mount Unwin Northeast Face, Pitch 7 or 8 David Henry

Placename Photos
10 Maligne Lake from Summit of Warren Rick Collier
9 Mount Charlton from the West Rick Collier
9 Maligne Mountain from Mount Unwin David Henry
6 Northwest from the Head of Warren Creek Rick Collier
3 Maligne Pass Looking North Dieter Kepper