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Mount Tantalus  British Columbia   #39
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges

Height: 2603 m -> 8540 feet
Prominence?: 1478 m above Tzoonie Pass
Line Parent?: Mount Perkins (71.9 km away, at bearing 333 degrees)
Greater Parent: Monmouth Mountain (134.5 km away)

Location:   49.81805,-123.32944     49:49:05, -123:19:46   10U 476301 5518454 (24 km SE of Falk Lake). (14 km NW of Brackendale). NTS Mapsheet: 092.G.14   AreaCode: EM93/ID12
First Ascent: 1911 B. Darling; J. Davies; A. Morkill
Tantalus from Pelion
The first ascent was not made via Lake Lovely Water but directly from the Squamish River up the Rumbling Glacier. Glacial retreat has made this approach route possibly unclimbable or at least very difficult in its lower reaches today (not to mention the bushwack)

Name Notes: The name "Tantalus" comes from Greek Legend. For various crimes King Tantalus was banished to the underworld (Hades) where he spent his days up to his neck in water with delicious fruits hanging over his head which were wafted away whenever he tried to grasp them - hence the word "tantalize". The Tantalus Range peaks were considered especially attractive and tantalizing to the early Vancouver mountaineers.


1. SE Face (1911) B. Darling, J. Davies, A. Morkill. Class 3. In summer, the SE Face route is a series of ledges overlooking the Rumbling Glacier. The most difficult part of the climb is in reaching it. Severe avalanche danger early in the season. The original ascent party reached it from the Rumbling Glacier. Modern approaches begin from the Serratus-Dione col and follow Dione's long SE ridge. The most popular variation is to swing around to Tantalus' SE Face from the base of Dione's SE Ridge (FA: A. Parke, K. Winter, 1962). Bypass Witch's Tooth to the east. Beyond the tooth, it may be necessary to rappel into a deep bergschrund to get off the snow. If this is necessary, the climb may be an epic.
2. North Ridge (1944) V. Brink, N. Carter, A. Cooper, R. McLellan, R. Rolick, L. von Zuben, R. von Zuben. Glacier, Class 4. The classic approach is from Zenith Lake. Cross to its south shore and climb past Zenith Mountain to the Zenith-Tantalus col (GR773218-NAD27). Beyond the col, traverse SW, bypassing a couple of intervening subpeaks on the east side. Where the Rumbling Glacier rises to meet the end of the long north ridge of Mount Tantalus (GR760203-NAD27), cross-over the ridge to its west side. (A formidable crevasse may be an impediment on the east side of the crossover point, with June or early July presenting the least problems.) Once on the westside, head due south on easier snowslopes for 1.3km (also crevassed later in the season). Where the snow or ice pinches out at the west ridge (GR760190-NAD27), cross back to the eastside, descend a short distance and begin steep climbing up a tongue of the glacier. There is an exposed, rocky traverse above the Rumbling Glacier to reach the summit tower. The route before the last grid reference has been skiied (First Descent, Paul Kubik, June 30, 1991).
3. NE Couloir (early 20th century) N. Carter, E. Nunn, C. Townsend. Glacier, Class 4. Ascend the glaciated couloir adjacent the NE Ridge, from the Rumbling Glacier. The couloir is most easily reached from Zenith-Tantalus col. Make a descending traverse (avalanche danger) from the col to the nunatuk, which is at the base of the couloir. Probably best in early season when snow bridges the two large bergschrunds that split the couloir. At the top of the couloir, the route intersects the North Ridge.
4. NE Ridge (Unknown) Class 4. Approach as for NE Couloir. Intersects the North Ridge near the summit.
5. West face (1968) R Cuthbert, A Purdey, G Kozel. mid 5th. An involved route reached from Dione Glacier by dropping down steep snow to reach the basin below the face. First climb 240m up the rib on Witch's Tooth next to Dione Couloir. At a minor peak, drop down and traverse the next pinnacle on the right. Cut left across the couloir and follow a major ledge to its end. Climb a wall to a ridge and follow it to a major tower. Rap the tower and then go right to a poor 5.7 crack (loose). Continue up and right to follow ridge to the summit.

Trips within 1 km
53 2015.05.02 Tantalus Traverse in a day Ryan Allderman
39 2006.08.12 Tantalus High Traverse: Sigurd Creek to Lake Lovely Water Doug Brown (Vancouver)
48 2004.07.15 Tantalus Range: Alpha, Dione, Serratus, Pelops, Niobe Steph Durocher
49 2004.07.01 Tantalus North Ridge from Sea Level Todd Ponzini
72 1997.06.06 Tantalus Range Ski Traverse Paul Kubik
61 1989.09.03 Rumbling Glacier High Route to Mount Tantalus SE Face Paul Kubik

Comments
2004.03.17 Tzoonie-Falk saddle Drew Brayshaw
 

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
20 Tantalus from Pelion Chris Gooliaff
15 Tantalus and Dione from the East Stephen Skog
9 Tantalus East Paul Kubik
9 The Black Tusk and Tantalus Range from Piccolo Summit Mitch Sulkers
9 Tantalus from Ossa Summit Nicholas Gobin
8 Tantalus and Dione from the Air Scott Pick
8 Mount Tantalus West Face Paul Kubik
6 Randy Stoltmann and Shirley Rempel on Tantalus Steve Grant
6 Tantalus and Pelion Summits Brett Logan
5 Mount Tantalus and Dione from the Garibaldi Lake Trail Lucas Earl
5 Tantalus From Icecap Ryan Allderman
5 Zenith and Tantalus from the High Falls Creek trail Martin Ortmayr
5 Tantalus from East Serguei Okountsev
5 Tantalus - North Side Jeremy Frimer
4 Tantalus and Dionne Jason Addy
4 Sunset over the Tantalus Mountain Range Scott Fiddes

Placename Photos
15 Full Panorama from Top of Mount Sedgwick Keith Freeman
14 Ponor Peak and Mount Crerar Don Funk
10 Northern Tantalus Range 90 Degree Panorama Paul Kubik
9 View North from the Summit of Red Tusk Andrew Rennie
8 Whirlwind Peak from below the Refuse Pinnacle Lucas Earl
4 Tantalus Range from Mount Varley Natasha Gellatly
4 Tantalus North Ridge Todd Ponzini
4 Panorama of the Tantalus Range from the Squamish Highway Michael Coyle
3 Tantalus: View from the Northwest Reynold Schmidt