1. SE Face (1911) B. Darling, J. Davies, A. Morkill. Class 3. In summer, the SE Face route is a series of ledges overlooking the Rumbling Glacier. The most difficult part of the climb is in reaching it. Severe avalanche danger early in the season. The original ascent party reached it from the Rumbling Glacier. Modern approaches begin from the Serratus-Dione col and follow Dione's long SE ridge. The most popular variation is to swing around to Tantalus' SE Face from the base of Dione's SE Ridge (FA: A. Parke, K. Winter, 1962). Bypass Witch's Tooth to the east. Beyond the tooth, it may be necessary to rappel into a deep bergschrund to get off the snow. If this is necessary, the climb may be an epic.
2. North Ridge (1944) V. Brink, N. Carter, A. Cooper, R. McLellan, R. Rolick, L. von Zuben, R. von Zuben. Glacier, Class 4. The classic approach is from Zenith Lake. Cross to its south shore and climb past Zenith Mountain to the Zenith-Tantalus col (GR773218-NAD27). Beyond the col, traverse SW, bypassing a couple of intervening subpeaks on the east side. Where the Rumbling Glacier rises to meet the end of the long north ridge of Mount Tantalus (GR760203-NAD27), cross-over the ridge to its west side. (A formidable crevasse may be an impediment on the east side of the crossover point, with June or early July presenting the least problems.) Once on the westside, head due south on easier snowslopes for 1.3km (also crevassed later in the season). Where the snow or ice pinches out at the west ridge (GR760190-NAD27), cross back to the eastside, descend a short distance and begin steep climbing up a tongue of the glacier. There is an exposed, rocky traverse above the Rumbling Glacier to reach the summit tower. The route before the last grid reference has been skiied (First Descent, Paul Kubik, June 30, 1991).
3. NE Couloir (early 20th century) N. Carter, E. Nunn, C. Townsend. Glacier, Class 4. Ascend the glaciated couloir adjacent the NE Ridge, from the Rumbling Glacier. The couloir is most easily reached from Zenith-Tantalus col. Make a descending traverse (avalanche danger) from the col to the nunatuk, which is at the base of the couloir. Probably best in early season when snow bridges the two large bergschrunds that split the couloir. At the top of the couloir, the route intersects the North Ridge.
4. NE Ridge (Unknown) Class 4. Approach as for NE Couloir. Intersects the North Ridge near the summit.
5. West face (1968) R Cuthbert, A Purdey, G Kozel. mid 5th. An involved route reached from Dione Glacier by dropping down steep snow to reach the basin below the face. First climb 240m up the rib on Witch's Tooth next to Dione Couloir. At a minor peak, drop down and traverse the next pinnacle on the right. Cut left across the couloir and follow a major ledge to its end. Climb a wall to a ridge and follow it to a major tower. Rap the tower and then go right to a poor 5.7 crack (loose). Continue up and right to follow ridge to the summit.
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