Mount Ulysses British Columbia #3818
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Muskwa Ranges
Height: 3024 m -> 9921 feet
Prominence?: 2289 m above Grand Pacific Pass
Line Parent?: AE46 (804.3 km away, at bearing 289 degrees)
Greater Parent: Fairweather Mountain (806.0 km away)
Location: 57.34631,-124.09274 57:20:47, -124:05:34 10V 434238 6356464 (12 km W of Redfern Lake). (93 km E of Fort Ware). NTS Mapsheet: 094.F.08 AreaCode: FM74/DA49
First Ascent: Wednesday August 16, 1961 Scott Arighi, Arthur Maki & Robert West. (University of Wisconsin party)
| This peak is #14 in Prominence List for British Columbia .Located north of Williston Lake, between Fort Ware and the Alaska Highway. It is at the head of the Prophet River, and northeast of Finlay Reach. This is the highest peak in the Northern Rockies, north of the Peace River and east of the Finlay and Kechika rivers. |
The mountain has three sharp rocky ridges arranged in a triangle: east ridge, southwest ridge, and north ridge. The SW ridge is relatively flat on top, but at 2800m the ridge sharpens to a blade and rises steeply. The east ridge could be gained from the glacier, but again has a sharp ridge at 2800m.
From the north, the Ithaca Glacier could possibly be used as an approach, but there is still a steep side slope to get onto the ridge, and then the usual sharp blade at 2800m.
Access appears to be of epic proportions as well, with the nearest road about 50 km to the east.
First Ascent Info:
CAJ 1962 Last Virgin Peaks Of The Northern Rockies by
Robert West page 12
Name Notes: The name Ulysses was adopted by BC Names on 19 December 1961 on 94F, as submitted by mountaineer Robert West, University of Wisconsin at Madison.
Ulysses is one of a suite of names used for peaks in the area which were taken from Homer's "Odyssey": Ulysses was the hero of Homer's epic poem - a king of Ithaca and Greek leader in the Trojan War, who after the war wandered for 10 years before reaching home
1. First Ascent Route (1962.08.16) Robert West, Scott Arighi, Arthur Maki. Steep snow, icefalls, belayed climbing. From camp near Redfern lake. Climbed thru first icefall, across 40 degree snow slope, cross bergshrund, then up the face itself, up a chimney then a ledge up the ridge to the final ice cap.
Equipment: Rope, crampons, ice axe
Trips within 1 km
2004.02.24 Fresh Prominence Clairification Robin Tivy
2004.01.20 New Prominence Proof Mike Cleven
|Subject Photos View Thumbnails|
25 Mount Ulysses From The Southeast John Scurlock
15 Mount Ulysses From The North John Scurlock
9 Northeast Face, Mount Ulysses Scott Pomeroy