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Wedge Mountain  British Columbia   #34
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges

Height: 2892 m -> 9488 feet
Prominence?: 2249 m above Tokum Corners Pass
Line Parent?: Mount Dalgleish (96.6 km away, at bearing 311 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Queen Bess (177.8 km away)

Location:   50.13296,-122.79337     50:07:59, -122:47:36   10U 514767 5553434 (20 km E of Rainbow Lake). (12 km E of Whistler). NTS Mapsheet: 092.J.02   AreaCode: FM02/BH39
First Ascent: 1923 N. Carter; C. Townsend
Wedge Mountain - North Side
This peak is #15 in Prominence List for British Columbia .Located in the northern part of Garibaldi park. Wedge Mountain is the highest summit in Garibaldi Provincial Park. The long wedge shaped summit ridge is recognizable from many peaks to the south. The north side of the mountain offers many excellent snow and ice routes. The south face, a series of avalanche tracks on consistently steep scree slopes, rises a vertical mile above Wedge Pass. As a result, views from the summit give one a sense of being above all of the surrounding country.

Climbing routes are described below, from left to right, when viewing the mountain from the north. Crevasses on the glacier can be challenging in late season. Climbers often stay at the Wedgemount Lake Hut.

Name Notes: The name comes from the long ridge like shape of the mountain.

Route Summaries exist for this mountain, but are only available to paid members.

Trip Reports within 1 km
37 2016.05.07 Wedge Mountain - Northeast Arete Laura Jones
51 2015.02.28 Wedge Mountain - climb North Arete, ski South Face Adam Osuchowski
23 2008.07.12 Wedge Mt. via north-east arete (in a day) Shawn Hedges
57 2004.04.9 Ski Touring near Mount Currie Mike Peel
62 2003.09.12 Soaked to the Bone on Mount James Turner Fred Touche
35 2003.01.18 Wedge NW Couloir Ski Descent in 1 day-revised Jesse Puddicombe
63 2001.05.20 The North Arete of Wedge in Superb Spring Conditions Scott Nelson
13 2000.11.11 Wedge Mountain North Arete: Could it get any better?! David Metvedt
42 1999.09.13 Search for the elusive Class 2 Route on James Turner Klaus Haring
19 1998.05.30 Wedge - Ascension par le "couloir nord-est" Pierre Signore
39 1980.07.05 Historic Ascent of Wedge Mountain North Arete Klaus Haring
92 1972.07.20 The Great Garibaldi Park Traverse - Part 1 Klaus Haring
50 1971.10 Wedgemount Glacier Recession Klaus Haring
25 1971.08.11 1971 Wedge from Hut Cliff Jennings
36 1923.09.08 1923 First ascent of Wedge Cliff Jennings
7 null Wedge - Northeast Couloir Route Pierre Signore


Paper Maps
1:25000Backcountry Whistler John Baldwin Books and Maps

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
21 Wedgemount Glacier - Before the Recession Gerry Kollmuss
16 Wedge Mountain from Rainbow Pass Mitch Sulkers
13 Wedge - North Arete Variations Scott Nelson
13 Wedge Mountain - North Arete Fred Touche
12 Mt. Currie to Wedge Mountain: Northern Garibaldi Park Mitch Sulkers
9 Wedge Mountain - North Side Fred Touche
9 Historic View of Wedgemount Glacier Klaus Haring
8 Wedge Mountain and Eureka from Oasis Mountain David Campbell
8 Wedge & Weart 15, Wedge North Face & Mt James Turner Cliff Jennings
7 Wedge Mountain and Tremor Mountain from Overlord Mountain Lucas Earl
7 Wedge Mountain from Mt Cook Serguei Okountsev
7 Wedgemont Lake hike 11, Wedge from Shoulder of Weart Cliff Jennings
7 Wedge & Weart 13, Ole on Wedgemont Glacier Cliff Jennings
7 Wedge Mountain - Ascending the North Arete Dan Carey
7 Wedge North Arete Zoran Vasic
6 Wedge Mountain from Mount Cook Lucas Earl
6 Wedgemount Glacier Recession (2000) Neil Cole
6 Ascending James Turner view of Wedge & Lesser Wedge Cliff Jennings
5 Two Summer Skiers on Wedgemount Glacier Drew Brayshaw
5 Wedge Mountain Don Funk
5 Wedge Mountain - North West Andre Charland
5 Wedge Mountain - Northeast Buttress Fred Touche
5 Wedge Mountain - East Face Fred Touche
5 1973 Rainbow, Gin & Tonic Lakes 10 view of Wedge Mountain Cliff Jennings
4 Wedge Mountain - North ArÍte Serguei Okountsev
4 Wedge Mountain from the North Anthony Mallinson
4 Wedge Mountain - North Arete Jeremy Frimer
4 Wedge - Northeast Couloir Pierre Signore
3 Wedge Mountain - Summit Surprise Brett Logan
3 Wedge - Climbing the Northeast Couloir Pierre Signore
3 Wedge Mountain - Northeast Side Fred Touche
3 Wedge Ray Borbon
3 View of Wedge's SW face from the Spearhead Glacier Lee Lau
3 Wedge and Lesser Wedge From Owls Drew Brayshaw
2 Finished with Wedge Ray Borbon

Placename Photos
10 Lesser Wedge Mountain Lukas Chrostowski
10 Moonrise-Wedgemount Lake Drew Brayshaw
9 Wedge - Looking Down North ArÍte Paul Morton
9 West Face of Lesser Wedge Mountain Scott Nelson
9 Mountains of Northern Garibaldi Park Jordan Peters
9 Tremor Mountain from Overlord Mountain Lucas Earl
8 Lesser Wedge Mountain - North Face Fred Touche
7 Whirlwind Peak Summit Ridge Lucas Earl
7 Massive Crown Line on Wedge West Face Jordan Peters
6 Nivalis Mountain telephoto from Mount Cook Lucas Earl
6 Wedgemount Lake Hut Gareth Evans
6 Mount James Turner Scott Fiddes
6 Mt. Wedge or somewhere in Himalayas? Zoran Vasic
6 Mount James Turner from the Musical Bumps Mitch Sulkers
5 White-Tailed Ptarmigans at Wedgemount Lake Gareth Evans
5 Parkhurst Mountain at Sunset from Wedgemount Lake Lucas Earl
5 North Face of Lesser Wedge Jordan Peters
5 Rainbow Pass in Summer Mitch Sulkers
4 Wedge - North Side Routes Pierre Signore
4 Currie - Wedge Panorama from Sproatt Paul Baker
4 Wedge Mountain - Descending the North Arete Dan Carey
4 Wedge Mountain - Wedgemount Glacier Icefall Dan Carey
4 Lesser Wedge Mountain from Mount Cook Lucas Earl
3 Wedge - North Arete Pierre Signore
3 Cliffs - Southwest shore of Wedgemount Lake Gareth Evans
3 Wedge Mountain and Parkhurst Andre Charland
3 Wedgemount Lake Dan Carey
3 Wedge Mountain: Getting High on North Arete Steven Harng
2 On Wedgemount Glacier Drew Brayshaw
2 Daybreak on Wedge Drew Brayshaw
1 Mount James Turner from Wedge Mountain Steven Harng