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Wedge Mountain  British Columbia   #34
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges

Height: 2892 m -> 9488 feet
Prominence?: 2249 m above Tokum Corners Pass
Line Parent?: Mount Dalgleish (96.6 km away, at bearing 311 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Queen Bess (177.8 km away)

Location:   50.13296,-122.79337     50:07:59, -122:47:36   10U 514767 5553434 (20 km E of Rainbow Lake). (12 km E of Whistler). NTS Mapsheet: 092.J.02   AreaCode: FM02/BH39
First Ascent: 1923 N. Carter; C. Townsend
Wedge Mountain - North Side
This peak is #15 in Prominence List for British Columbia .Located in the northern part of Garibaldi park. Wedge Mountain is the highest summit in Garibaldi Provincial Park. The long wedge shaped summit ridge is recognizable from many peaks to the south. The north side of the mountain offers many excellent snow and ice routes. The south face, a series of avalanche tracks on consistently steep scree slopes, rises a vertical mile above Wedge Pass. As a result, views from the summit give one a sense of being above all of the surrounding country.

Climbing routes are described below, from left to right, when viewing the mountain from the north. Crevasses on the glacier can be challenging in late season. Climbers often stay at the Wedgemount Lake Hut.

Name Notes: The name comes from the long ridge like shape of the mountain.

1. Access: Wedgemont Lake Trail Standard access for all routes.
2. Northeast Face The rock, snow and ice face to the climbers left of the north arete. access the face by crossing the arete at the wedge - weart col or higher up.
3. North Arete 45 degree snow / ice, AD-. A classic moderate route. Approach from Wedgemont Lake and cross the Wedgemount Glacier past an icefall to gain the North Arete where the arete flattens. Alternatively climb the entire arete from the Wedge-Weart Col.
4. North Face Couloir The short couloir immediately to the right of the north arete
5. North Couloir (1981) Rob Discoll, Ken Legg. snow / ice up to 50 degrees, AD. The lefthand of two parrallel couloirs situated on the right side Wedge's North Face. Mostly 40-45 degree snow or ice, but steeper at the top. In early season, the cornice is the main obstacle, while later in the summer the bergscrund provides the most challenging climbing. The usual approach is from the Wedgemount Glacier. It's about 4 60m rope lengths from the bergschrund to the top.
6. NE Couloir This route is the righthand of the two couloirs on the N face of Wedge. It is best done in spring due to the difficult bergschrund. Cross bergschrund and ascend steep snow to summit plateau: mostly 50 degrees steepening to 55 degrees where the couloir narrows, half way up.
7. NW Couloir mainly 45 degree snow, with a short section of 50 degrees. The long wide couloir on the NW Face of Wedge Mountain. It drains into Rethel Creek and is visible from Whistler Village. Joins with West Ridge route at the top of the couloir.
8. West Ridge 3rd class, Loose, F. (Normal Route) Ascend the Wedgemount Glacier to the Wedge-Parkhurst col and drop down the west side, passing the base of Wedge Couloir. Follow a minor spur ridge up into the loose rubbly slopes above to reach the easy summit ridge. Easy but long. Best done with spring snow cover.

Trips within 1 km
37 2016.05.07 Wedge Mountain - Northeast Arete Laura Jones
51 2015.02.28 Wedge Mountain - climb North Arete, ski South Face Adam Osuchowski
23 2008.07.12 Wedge Mt. via north-east arete (in a day) Shawn Hedges
57 2004.04.9 Ski Touring near Mount Currie Mike Peel
62 2003.09.12 Soaked to the Bone on Mount James Turner Fred Touche
35 2003.01.18 Wedge NW Couloir Ski Descent in 1 day-revised Jesse Puddicombe
63 2001.05.20 The North Arete of Wedge in Superb Spring Conditions Scott Nelson
13 2000.11.11 Wedge Mountain North Arete: Could it get any better?! David Metvedt
42 1999.09.13 Search for the elusive Class 2 Route on James Turner Klaus Haring
19 1998.05.30 Wedge - Ascension par le "couloir nord-est" Pierre Signore
40 1980.07.05 Historic Ascent of Wedge Mountain North Arete Klaus Haring
92 1972.07.20 The Great Garibaldi Park Traverse - Part 1 Klaus Haring
50 1971.10 Wedgemount Glacier Recession Klaus Haring
25 1971.08.11 1971 Wedge from Hut Cliff Jennings
36 1923.09.08 1923 First ascent of Wedge Cliff Jennings
7 null Wedge - Northeast Couloir Route Pierre Signore


Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
21 Wedgemount Glacier - Before the Recession Gerry Kollmuss
16 Wedge Mountain from Rainbow Pass Mitch Sulkers
13 Wedge - North Arete Variations Scott Nelson
13 Wedge Mountain - North Arete Fred Touche
12 Mt. Currie to Wedge Mountain: Northern Garibaldi Park Mitch Sulkers
9 Wedge Mountain - North Side Fred Touche
9 Historic View of Wedgemount Glacier Klaus Haring
8 Wedge Mountain and Eureka from Oasis Mountain David Campbell
8 Wedge & Weart 15, Wedge North Face & Mt James Turner Cliff Jennings
7 Wedge Mountain and Tremor Mountain from Overlord Mountain Lucas Earl
7 Wedge Mountain from Mt Cook Serguei Okountsev
7 Wedge & Weart 13, Ole on Wedgemont Glacier Cliff Jennings
7 Wedge Mountain - Ascending the North Arete Dan Carey
7 Wedgemont Lake hike 11, Wedge from Shoulder of Weart Cliff Jennings
7 Wedge North Arete Zoran Vasic
6 Ascending James Turner view of Wedge & Lesser Wedge Cliff Jennings
6 Wedge Mountain from Mount Cook Lucas Earl
6 Wedgemount Glacier Recession (2000) Neil Cole
5 1973 Rainbow, Gin & Tonic Lakes 10 view of Wedge Mountain Cliff Jennings
5 Two Summer Skiers on Wedgemount Glacier Drew Brayshaw
5 Wedge Mountain Don Funk
5 Wedge Mountain - North West Andre Charland
5 Wedge Mountain - Northeast Buttress Fred Touche
5 Wedge Mountain - East Face Fred Touche
5 Skiout to Green Lake 09 (Cliff with Wedge Mountain behind) Cliff Jennings
4 Wedge Mountain - North ArÍte Serguei Okountsev
4 Wedge Mountain from the North Anthony Mallinson
4 Wedge Mountain - North Arete Jeremy Frimer
4 Wedge - Northeast Couloir Pierre Signore
3 Wedge - Climbing the Northeast Couloir Pierre Signore
3 Wedge Ray Borbon
3 Wedge Mountain - Northeast Side Fred Touche
3 View of Wedge's SW face from the Spearhead Glacier Lee Lau
3 Wedge Mountain - Summit Surprise Brett Logan
3 Wedge and Lesser Wedge From Owls Drew Brayshaw
2 Finished with Wedge Ray Borbon

Placename Photos
10 Lesser Wedge Mountain Lukas Chrostowski
10 Moonrise-Wedgemount Lake Drew Brayshaw
9 Wedge - Looking Down North ArÍte Paul Morton
9 West Face of Lesser Wedge Mountain Scott Nelson
9 Mountains of Northern Garibaldi Park Jordan Peters
9 Tremor Mountain from Overlord Mountain Lucas Earl
8 Lesser Wedge Mountain - North Face Fred Touche
7 Whirlwind Peak Summit Ridge Lucas Earl
7 Massive Crown Line on Wedge West Face Jordan Peters
6 Nivalis Mountain telephoto from Mount Cook Lucas Earl
6 Wedgemount Lake Hut Gareth Evans
6 Mount James Turner Scott Fiddes
6 Mt. Wedge or somewhere in Himalayas? Zoran Vasic
6 Mount James Turner from the Musical Bumps Mitch Sulkers
5 White-Tailed Ptarmigans at Wedgemount Lake Gareth Evans
5 Parkhurst Mountain at Sunset from Wedgemount Lake Lucas Earl
5 North Face of Lesser Wedge Jordan Peters
5 Rainbow Pass in Summer Mitch Sulkers
4 Wedge - North Side Routes Pierre Signore
4 Currie - Wedge Panorama from Sproatt Paul Baker
4 Wedge Mountain - Descending the North Arete Dan Carey
4 Wedge Mountain - Wedgemount Glacier Icefall Dan Carey
4 Lesser Wedge Mountain from Mount Cook Lucas Earl
3 Wedge - North Arete Pierre Signore
3 Cliffs - Southwest shore of Wedgemount Lake Gareth Evans
3 Wedge Mountain and Parkhurst Andre Charland
3 Wedgemount Lake Dan Carey
3 Wedge Mountain: Getting High on North Arete Steven Harng
2 On Wedgemount Glacier Drew Brayshaw
2 Daybreak on Wedge Drew Brayshaw
1 Mount James Turner from Wedge Mountain Steven Harng