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Mount Edziza  British Columbia   #3083
Ranges: North America Ranges / BC Interior Mountains / Tahltan Highland

Height: 2793 m -> 9163 feet
Prominence?: 1763 m above Mess Pass
Line Parent?: Ambition Mountain (62.0 km away, at bearing 235 degrees)
Greater Parent: Scud Peak (61.6 km away)

Location:   57.71556,-130.63445     57:42:56, -130:38:04   9V 402630 6398218 (37 km SE of Telegraph Creek). NTS Mapsheet: 104.G.10   AreaCode: FN70/HG13
Mount Edziza From the Northwest
This peak is #47 in Prominence List for British Columbia .Located in northwest British Columbia, west of Highway 37 and southeast of the Stikine River and Telegraph Creek. The Edziza Massif is the largest volcano in Canada, consisting of numerous peaks and ridges, with numerous large glaciers flowing in all directions. The volcanic crater itself is almost 2 km wide. The three main peaks around the crater are the southwest summit, the southeast summit and the north summit. The southwest summit is labelled as the peak itself on the 1:50,000 map, and according to people who have climbed the peak, it is the highest summit, in spite of the fact that the contour lines on the map show a bigger area above 9000 feet on the north summit. The south summit is a black cock's comb and quite distinct. The most gradual approaches are from the west, where largely flat glaciers flow gradually in all directions. All along the eastern approaches are huge drops with icefalls. Due to hidden crevasses, it would be advised to have a rope, crampons and ice axe on all routes. According to at least 3 different parties, the crevasses are lightly covered and it is easy to punch through. In addition, crampons are definitely desirable in August, since any approach requires more than 2 km of walking on upsloping bare ice.

The area was first visited by First Nations people as a source of obsidian. However, they probably wouldn't have any reason to climb the final class 5 pinnacle.

Name Notes: Variously cited as meaning 'sand', 'red sand', and 'cinders' in the Tahltan language. Also cited as being named after the Edzerza family in the area (mispelled on maps).

Route Summaries exist for this mountain, but are only available to paid members.

Trip Reports within 1 km
62 2018.04.28 Edziza Ski Traverse - Bukley Lake to Arctic Lake Betsy Waddington
85 2002.08.19 Overland Traverse of Mount Edziza Plateau Robin Tivy
14 null Edziza from Sezill Creek Route Robin Tivy
20 null Edziza North Summit (Upper Pillow Ridge) Route Robin Tivy


Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
19 Grizzly Bears on Mount Edziza Christoph Dietzfelbinger
16 Mount Edziza From the Northwest Robin Tivy
7 Edziza South Slopes John Scurlock
6 Mount Edziza Summit Crags from Southwest John Scurlock
6 Mount Edziza North Aspect (with Eve Cone) John Scurlock
5 Mount Edziza Summit Crags - from South John Scurlock
4 Mount Edziza - Upper East Face John Scurlock
4 Mount Edziza East Face John Scurlock
4 Mount Edziza and Mess Lake from the Southwest David Campbell
4 Mount Edziza - Western Glacier Christoph Dietzfelbinger
3 Edziza North Slopes (from Air) John Scurlock

Placename Photos
6 Coffee Crater John Robertson