| This peak is #47 in Prominence List for British Columbia .Located in northwest British Columbia, west of Highway 37 and southeast of the Stikine River and Telegraph Creek. The Edziza Massif is the largest volcano in Canada, consisting of numerous peaks and ridges, with numerous large glaciers flowing in all directions. The volcanic crater itself is almost 2 km wide. The three main peaks around the crater are the southwest summit, the southeast summit and the north summit. The southwest summit is labelled as the peak itself on the 1:50,000 map, and according to people who have climbed the peak, it is the highest summit, in spite of the fact that the contour lines on the map show a bigger area above 9000 feet on the north summit. The south summit is a black cock's comb and quite distinct. The most gradual approaches are from the west, where largely flat glaciers flow gradually in all directions. All along the eastern approaches are huge drops with icefalls. Due to hidden crevasses, it would be advised to have a rope, crampons and ice axe on all routes. According to at least 3 different parties, the crevasses are lightly covered and it is easy to punch through. In addition, crampons are definitely desirable in August, since any approach requires more than 2 km of walking on upsloping bare ice. |
The area was first visited by First Nations people as a source of obsidian. However, they probably wouldn't have any reason to climb the final class 5 pinnacle.
Name Notes: Variously cited as meaning 'sand', 'red sand', and 'cinders' in the Tahltan language. Also cited as being named after the Edzerza family in the area (mispelled on maps).