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Mount Garibaldi  British Columbia   #30
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges

Height: 2675 m -> 8776 feet
Prominence?: 855 m  
Line Parent?: Castle Towers Mountain (10.8 km away, at bearing 24 degrees)
Greater Parent: Castle Towers Mountain (10.8 km away)

Location:   49.85056,-123.00472     49:51:02, -123:00:17   10U 499660 5522015 (9 km S of Garibaldi Lake). (14 km NE of Brackendale). NTS Mapsheet: 092.G.14   AreaCode: EM93/IA50
First Ascent: Monday August 12, 1907 A. Dalton; W. Dalton; A. King; T. Pattison; J.J. Trorey; G. Warren
Mount Garibaldi from lake camp en route to Mamquam
This peak is located northeast of Squamish on the southwest corner of Garibaldi Park. Mount Garibaldi is a large dormant volcano, lying between the popular Garibaldi Lake area to its north and the Diamond Head area to the south. It has a small icefield to the east called the Garibaldi Neve which is frequently crossed as a 2 or 3 day ski trip. Visible from the head of Howe Sound, and from Squamish.

Atwell Peak on the south edge of the Garibaldi massif was first sighted by ship from Howe Sound. Mount Garibaldi was probably the first of the truly alpine peaks in the Coast Mountains to be climbed.

Name Notes: Named Mount Garibaldi in 1860 by Captain Richards, of the Royal Navy, after Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807-1882) the great Italian patriot who that year had succeeded in unifying Italy. Recently several first nations names have also been created or discovered for the peak. One nameis Ta Nch'qai' (the "Grimy One"). Another one Chief Ian Campbell says that Squamish Nations' official name for the mountain is Nch'kay (pronounced Chuck-eye), same origin as Cheekeye.

1. Access via Elfin Lakes From the Diamond Head parking lot, hike to Elfin Lakes, then down into Ring Creek. A typical camp is just W of Opal Cone. (See Neve Route descriptions). From this access point one can either do the Atwell-Garibaldi col route, or the normal northeast face route.
2. Access via Brohm Ridge Drive to the highest point on Cheekye FSR and park at the gate. Walk the remaining road then continue along the top of Brohm Ridge to the Warren Glacier. This is the north access route for the NE Face and N face routes on Mt. Garibaldi.
3. Access via Brohm Ridge from Swift Creek From Highway 99, hike along the Swift Creek Road then climb up through clearcut to western end of Brohm Ridge. Then follow Brohm Ridge eastward and swing around the north end of Mount Garibaldi, crossing the Warren Glacier, and then the NE ridge to get onto the North Pitt Glacier. Then up to summit via normal "neve" route.
4. Northeast Face (Normal Route) ((early) August 1907) A. Dalton; W. Dalton; Atwell King; T. Pattison; J.J.Trorey; G.Warren. Steep snow (45 degrees). From the glacier just north of The Tent at 2400m, kick steps in a fairly straight line up the 45 degree snow slopes to a saddle just north of the final peak. Cross the bergshrund (usually filled with snow March-June) just below the ridgeline, then gain the ridge. From the col on the NW ridge, walk up the ridge to the summit. Most parties have ice axe and rope, but often don't use rope. The peak is often climbed as part of a ski traverse of the Neve.
5. East Face (via Atwell-Garibaldi Col) Class 3-4 with rappels, rockfall danger. Climb east facing slopes to reach the Garibaldi-Atwell col at 2520 m. Then climb the obvious couloir on the west side of the summit pyramid. The final climb is only recommended if snow covered due to extremely loose rock. Equipment: Two full length ropes, helmet, slings, ice axe, crampons AvgTime: 5 hours up from camp on Ring Glacier, 20 minutes to climb summit pyramid

Trips within 1 km
51 2017.05.06 Traverse of Atwell Peak - Up East Face down Siberian Express with skis Ryan Allderman
34 2010.06.08 Mt Garibaldi - A June ski ascent Evan Sklarski
61 2009.06.06 North East Route - Mount Garibaldi Henrik Hinkkala
49 2009.05.23 Skunked Again on Atwell Fred Touche
53 2007.09.08 Brohm Ridge - Garibaldi/Dalton Dome - Elfin Lakes traverse in summer Bram van Straaten
19 2006.07.23 Adam/Culbert Route (E Face of Atwell-Garibaldi Col, then W Face of Pyramid) Route Robin Tivy
29 2006.07.23 Garibaldi - East Face, South of Summit Pyramid - Major Guidebook Problem Paul Adam
27 2005.05.28 Heat Exhaustion on Mount Garibaldi Scott Nelson
58 2002.06.08 Not Atwell Peak Again! Fred Touche
14 2001.10.13 Bears! on Brohm Ridge (Towards Garibaldi) Gary Sutton
55 2001.03.23 Garibaldi Neve Traverse...The Ideal Trip! Justin Bennett
45 2001.02.10 Swift Creek Route to The Tent (and Mount Garibaldi) Robin Tivy
44 2000.06.24 Mount Garibaldi from Brohm Ridge Richard Howard
38 2000.02.19 Garibaldi Neve under ideal conditions Wilf LeBlanc
20 1998.05.02 Garibaldi - Ascension en solo par la face nord-est. Pierre Signore
22 1998.02.28 Garibaldi Neve - La traversee annuelle du BCMC Pierre Signore
14 1985.06.15 Garibaldi Northeast Face Route Route Robin Tivy
26 1975.04.31 My First Garibaldi Neve Traverse Steve Grant
41 1968.08.16 Early climbs of Mount Garibaldi Klaus Haring
25 1907.08.08 Interpretation of Daltons 1907 First Ascent Route Up Mount Garibaldi Route Robin Tivy

2004.03.17 Castle Towers is 1m higher Scott Nelson

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
18 Mt. Garibaldi from Gentian Peak Alan Nurmeste
17 Garibaldi Massif from Southeast Fred Touche
16 Garibaldi Massif From South Fred Touche
13 Mount Garibaldi From Atwell Peak Fred Touche
11 Garibaldi Massif - Northeast Side Fred Touche
10 Mount Garibaldi from lake camp en route to Mamquam Matt Gunn
9 Mount Garibaldi - North Side in Winter Don Funk
9 Garibaldi via South Culliton Creek Ramsay Dyer
8 Garibaldi Massif from the Garibaldi Neve Michael Coyle
8 View of East Side of Garibaldi Massif Bram van Straaten
7 Garibaldi Massif from the south, with Atwell Peak prominent Don Luymes
7 Garibaldi from Goat Ridge Keith Freeman
7 Garibaldi from Black Tusk Eric DeGiuli
6 Painting of "Garibaldi Side-Cut" David Pirrie
6 Garibaldi SW aspect from Squamish Drew Brayshaw
6 Leaving Garibaldi via Brohm Ridge in Summer Christian Veenstra
6 Dalton Dome and Atwell from Brohm Ridge Robin Tivy
6 View of Garibaldi-Tent Col from the Upper Bishop Glacier Bram van Straaten
6 Garibaldi Northeast Face Jeremy Frimer
6 North Side of Garibaldi and the Tent Bram van Straaten
5 Brandywine Meadows Pan (Mount Weart to Garibaldi) Cliff Jennings
5 1971 Cloudburst 02 (view of Table Mountain & Mount Garibaldi) Cliff Jennings
5 Garibaldi from East in Summer Christian Veenstra
5 Mount Garibaldi and Atwell Peak from Tantalus Mckay Savage
4 Garibaldi - East Face Route Evan Morris
4 Garibaldi - Near the summit Jeremy Frimer
4 1971 Cloudburst 04 (view of Garibaldi Mountain) Cliff Jennings
4 Couloir detail on Atwell-Garibaldi Col Route, Mt. Garibaldi Bob Jasperson
4 North Face of Dalton Dome/Garibaldi Scott Fiddes
3 South Side of the Mount. Garibaldi Massif Scott Pick
3 Garibaldi Massif from Stawamus Chief Richard Howard
3 Garibaldi - Summit Pierre Signore
3 Garibaldi - Climbing the Northwest Ridge Pierre Signore
3 Panorama of Cheekye Ridge and Mount Garibaldi from Paul Ridge Lee Lau
3 The Garibaldi Massif from Bishop Glacier Alexander Westbye
2 Garibaldi - Variation of East Face/Adam-Culbert route Evan Morris
2 Mount Garibalidi (Adam/Culbert) - Summit Route Marked Paul Adam

Placename Photos
15 Full Panorama from Top of Mount Sedgwick Keith Freeman
14 Martin Peak (From near Gibson Col) Simon Chesterton
13 Atwell Peak in Winter Don Funk
11 Gargoyles and Atwell Steve Sproule
10 Omega from Iota Ramsay Dyer
10 Guard Mountain, Mount Garibaldi, and the Table at Sunset Alan Nurmeste
10 Dalton Dome - Northwest Face Fred Touche
9 Hops Peak and Mount Garibaldi Klaus Haring
9 Tarn on the West Ridge of Mount Elsay Klaus Haring
9 West Ridge of Dreadnought (Demon Peak) Klaus Haring
8 NE ridge of Corrie Peak Klaus Haring
8 Crevasses Near the Sharkfin in Summer Christian Veenstra
8 Atwell Peak in Spring Don Funk
8 Atwell Peak - South Ridge Don Funk
8 Stawamus Squaw from above Klaus Haring
8 Fuscian Peak, Corrie Peak, and Helm Peak from Flute Summit Lucas Earl
7 Forger Glacier Labelled Mini-Panorama Jeff Volp
7 Ring Creek Lava Flow and Mount Garibaldi in Winter Frank W. Baumann
6 Passing the Sharkfin in Summer Christian Veenstra
6 South of Atwell, Garibaldi, The Tent and Dalton in Winter Serguei Okountsev
6 David Peak from Unnecessary North Peak Serguei Okountsev
6 Stawamus Chief and Mount Garibaldi Klaus Haring
5 Atwell and Garibaldi from near Mount Alpen Drew Brayshaw
5 Darling Lake and Mount Garibaldi Simon Chesterton
5 Columnar and the Gargoyles in Morning Sun Steve Sproule
5 Mount Garibaldi from North after Thunderstorm Tom Tiedje
5 Columnar Peak; the Gargoyles and the Peaks of Garibaldi Hidden in Cloud - Panorama from Elfin Lakes Lee Lau
5 Blanca Lake and the Approach Ridge Greg Jones
5 View of Pyramid Mountain, the Mamquam Icefield and Mamquam Mountain from Elfin Lakes Lee Lau
4 View From Panorama Ridge Fred Touche
4 Atwell Peak - North Ridge Pierre Signore
3 Mount Garibaldi and the Garibaldi Neve in Winter Frank W. Baumann
3 Atwell Peak in Late Summer Don Funk