1. East ridge (1963.09.01) Butling, H., Deane, D., Dean, K., Stewart, M., Williams, P.. Class 3. From about 6,500 feet on the Gimli trail, cross grassy meadows heading for talus slopes that lead up to the base of the east ridge. A beaten in trail leads up a loose gully to a series of gains which skirt the bottom of the east ridge (class four via the east ridge) and regain it higher. Follow cairns and ledges that lead slightly north to the large summit plateau.
Distance: 6 km from trailhead
Equipment: Standard hiking equipment, helmet
AvgTime: 3.5 to 5 hours from trailhead.
2. Northeast ridge (1969.08.04) Brown, G. Tarver, F.. 5.6. Gain the NE ridge by traversing across the glacier/snowfield below the Nisleheim-Gimli col. Climb the ridge in 8 to 10 pitches. Detours onto the east face yield slightly easier climbing.
Distance: 3 km from bivy site
Equipment: Small rack to 3"
AvgTime: 4 to 6 hours from bivy site
3. South Ridge 5.9, III, 7p, 300m, trad. The South Ridge of Mount Gimli is a classic alpine route. The rock is stellar, the approach reasonable, there is no glacier travel to deal with, and the descent involves no rappelling.