1. West slopes, north ridge (Unknown) Unknown. Class 3, steep snow. This route is best done in spring when the entire climb is on snow, providing good step kicking on the way up and fast glissading on return. Follow the Kokanee Lake trail for one switchback. Instead of turning back to the north at the second switchback follow an old mining road to the south. After one switchback a creek crosses under the mining road. Go straight up on the south side of creek. It may be best to cross to the north side of the creek higher up in order to find continuous snow slopes to climb. There are rocky bluffs to work through so it is best not to be too far south. The alpine is reached in about 2 hours. Continue climbing a snow gulley to the col between Kokanee and Grays Peaks at 908089 (82 F/11). From this col, turn south and skirt a couple of subpeaks on snow to reach the final north ridge of Grays Peak. The last 5 metres is on steep snow (45 degrees). About 4 hours to the summit.
Distance: 8km round trip and 1180m elevation gain
Equipment: Ice axe
AvgTime: 1 day