1. North Ridge (1915 Aug) H.O. Frind, A.H. & E.L. MacCarthy, B. Shultz, M & W.E. Stone, Conrad Kain. Moderately broken glacier, loose class 2-3 rock.. Follow the east side of the Lake of the Hanging Glacier then ascend near a waterfall that comes down the cliffs of Mount Maye to the bench glacier roughly 1000' above the lake. Cross the glacier and ascend the couloir to the saddle between Commander and Mount Maye. Follow N ridge and bypass the first tower on the W about 300' below the ridge. Regain the ridge through the chimneys and gullies then bypass the second tower on the E. Climb a snow crest the continue along the ridge to the summit. (AAJ 1-75, CAJ 44-32) The MacCarthy party were the original ascenders of the N ridge, but approached from Farnham Creek to gain the Commander/Maye saddle. The approach from the Lake of the Hanging Glacier is no longer used due to glacial recession. The standard approach is up Farnham Creek and the Commander Glacier
Equipment: Glacier gear
2. South Ridge (1928 July) M.B. Byles, K. Gardiner, W. Feuz. Class 3, glacier travel across the heavily crevassed Commander Glacier. This is the normal ascent route and is a class 3 scramble from the glaciated col between Commander Mountain and the Guardsmen. From the standard bivouac location below the Commander Glacier, hike up the prominent ridge bounding the eastern side of the Commander Glacier until you can easily walk out on to the glacier. Cross the Commander Glacier (heavily crevassed) to the col between Commander and the Guardsmen. Scramble the class 3 south ridge to the summit.
Distance: 7 km one way from usual bivouac spot below Commander Glacier
Equipment: Standard glacier travel equipment
AvgTime: A full day for most parties from the standard bivouac spot