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Commander Mountain  British Columbia   #2611
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Purcell Mountains / Commander Group

Height: 3371 m -> 11060 feet
Prominence?: 91 m  
Line Parent?: Jumbo Mountain (1.5 km away, at bearing 197 degrees)
Greater Parent: Jumbo Mountain (2.0 km away)

Location:   50.41611,-116.55917     50:24:58, -116:33:33   11U 531320 5584990 (37 km W of Wilmer). NTS Mapsheet: 082.K.07   AreaCode: FL06/EF15
First Ascent: Wednesday August 04, 1915 H.O. Frind, A.H. & E.L. MacCarthy, B. Shultz, M & W.E. Stone, Conrad Kain
Commander and the Commander Glacier
This peak is #59 on the Height List for British Columbia .Located S of Mount Maye, NE of Karnak and Jumbo Mountain, and above the SE end of the Lake of the Hanging Glacier. The east aspect is mantled by the Commander Glacier, and the W aspect is mantled by the Jumbo Glacier and its spectacular icefall. The ridge connecting it to the Lieutenants also has several hanging glaciers on it.

The Guardsmen are three subpeaks located between Commander and the Cleaver.

Name Notes: Named in 1915 by Winthrop Stone after one of his visits to the area.

1. North Ridge (1915 Aug) H.O. Frind, A.H. & E.L. MacCarthy, B. Shultz, M & W.E. Stone, Conrad Kain. Moderately broken glacier, loose class 2-3 rock.. Follow the east side of the Lake of the Hanging Glacier then ascend near a waterfall that comes down the cliffs of Mount Maye to the bench glacier roughly 1000' above the lake. Cross the glacier and ascend the couloir to the saddle between Commander and Mount Maye. Follow N ridge and bypass the first tower on the W about 300' below the ridge. Regain the ridge through the chimneys and gullies then bypass the second tower on the E. Climb a snow crest the continue along the ridge to the summit. (AAJ 1-75, CAJ 44-32) The MacCarthy party were the original ascenders of the N ridge, but approached from Farnham Creek to gain the Commander/Maye saddle. The approach from the Lake of the Hanging Glacier is no longer used due to glacial recession. The standard approach is up Farnham Creek and the Commander Glacier Equipment: Glacier gear
2. South Ridge (1928 July) M.B. Byles, K. Gardiner, W. Feuz. Class 3, glacier travel across the heavily crevassed Commander Glacier. This is the normal ascent route and is a class 3 scramble from the glaciated col between Commander Mountain and the Guardsmen. From the standard bivouac location below the Commander Glacier, hike up the prominent ridge bounding the eastern side of the Commander Glacier until you can easily walk out on to the glacier. Cross the Commander Glacier (heavily crevassed) to the col between Commander and the Guardsmen. Scramble the class 3 south ridge to the summit. Distance: 7 km one way from usual bivouac spot below Commander Glacier Equipment: Standard glacier travel equipment AvgTime: A full day for most parties from the standard bivouac spot

Trips within 1 km
62 2005.08.18 Tagging Some 11,000ers: A Trip to the Commander Group Doug Brown


Paper Maps
1:600000Southwest Alberta & Southeast British Columbia Gem Trek

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
16 Commander and the Commander Glacier Doug Brown
5 High Camp Below the Commander Glacier Rick Collier

Placename Photos
17 Mount Maye and Commander Doug Brown
11 The Commander Group Sandra McGuinness
10 Medenagan From The North Brian Buick
8 Mount Maye from NW Klaus Haring
6 Centre Guardsmen Kevin Altheim
5 Lake of the Hanging Glacier Kevin Altheim
4 Lake of the Hanging Glacier Kevin Altheim
2 The Cleaver and Commander Glacier Kevin Altheim