Mount Nirvana Northwest Territories #255
Ranges: MacKenzie Ranges / Selwyn Mountains / Logan Mountains / Ragged Range
Height: 2773 m -> 9098 feet
Prominence?: 1663 m above Moose Ponds Pass
Line Parent?: Keele Peak (219.3 km away, at bearing 323 degrees)
Greater Parent: Keele Peak (219.0 km away)
Location: 61.87505,-127.68066 61:52:30, -127:40:50 9V 569383 6860965 (25 km NW of Hole In the Wall Lake). (30 km E of Tungsten). NTS Mapsheet: 095.E.13 AreaCode: GM17/IG78
First Ascent: 1965 W. J. Buckingham, L. J. Surdam
| This peak is #1 on the Height List for Northwest Territories . This peak is #1 in Prominence List for Northwest Territories .Located southwest of the South Nahanni River, in the Ragged Range. This range is a subrange of the Logan Mountains. The first climbing expedition into the area was led by John Milton in 1960. John Milton and Ed Arnold landed at Hole-in-the-Wall Lake, where they were doing ecological research. They decided to head west through the various passes. John Milton climbed Mount Savage, and from there he saw Nirvana, which he referred to as Mount Nahanni.|
In the same year, Bill Buckingham saw the peak from 30 km north in Cirque of the Unclimbables. In 1965 he and Lew Surdam landed at Hole-in-the-Wall Lake and approached the mountain from the south, but decided it was too steep, so they went around to the west and then north of the mountain. Their camp was in a cirque surrounded by high peaks now known as the Nirvana sanctuary. From here they climbed the peak via the northwest ridge.
Name Notes: Mount Nirvana is not yet the official name on government maps, although it is referred to as "Mount Nirvana" in alpine literature. William Buckingham, a mountain climber, coined it Nirvana in 1965.
1. First Ascent (via Northwest Ridge) (1965) Class 5.7. The peak was climbed for the first time in 1965 by W. J. Buckingham and L. J. Surdam. Their camp was in a cirque surrounded by high peaks now known as the Nirvana sanctuary. From here they climbed the peak via something referred to as the "northwest ridge". (American Alpine Journal, 1966, pages 33-37.)
2. RabbitKettle Lake Approach bushwacking. Rabbitkettle lake is north of the peak and puts you in position to climb the peak from the Sanctuary. Rabbitkettle Lake is a staging area for Nahanni River trips and there is a campground there. To get to the peak involves a difficult bushwack up the RabbitKettle river. Aircraft can be chartered from Fort Simpson, Watson Lake, or Fort Liard.
3. East face via Hole in the Wall Approach 5.7 YDS. To get at the east side of Nirvana, the route that has been done by Jack Bennett was via Lonely Lake. Theoretically, landing float planes in Hole in the Wall Lake Lake or Lonely Lake is not permitted, but there seem to be numerous reports.
Trips within 1 km
53 1995.01.01 Hole in the Wall Approach to Nirvana Robin Tivy
51 1992.01.01 Rabbitkettle River Approach to Mount Nirvana Robin Tivy
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