1. Southeast Corner ("Snowpatch Route") (August, 1940) Jack Arnold, Raffi Bedayn. Grade IV; 5.6+. From the Kain Hut head south on climber's trail then scree and boulders between a shoulder of the peak and the Bugaboo Glacier. After rounding the shoulder, hike up steep gullies to gain a notch in the east ridge at 2650 m. Climb 5 exposed pitches to reach the large snowpatch. Ascend slabs on the left side to gain a ramp leading right where the face steepens. Turn up the ramp after two 4th class pitches to several 5.6 cracks and hand traverses. There are new fixed rappel stations for descent on the West Face (1 60 meter rope is sufficient).
Equipment: Rock protection to 4 inches, slings