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Snowpatch Spire  British Columbia   #2536
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Purcell Mountains / Bugaboo Group

Height: 3084 m -> 10118 feet
Prominence?: 284 m  
Line Parent?: Pigeon Spire (1.0 km away, at bearing 228 degrees)
Greater Parent: Howser Spire (2.0 km away)

Location:   50.73639,-116.78222     50:44:11, -116:46:56   11U 515368 5620534 (46 km W of Edgewater). NTS Mapsheet: 082.K.10   AreaCode: FL06/HH38
First Ascent: 1940 J. Arnold; R. Bedayn
Snowpatch at Sunrise
A spectacular brown granite tower surrounded by three glaciers, the Bugaboo Glacier to the south, the Vowell Glacier to the west, and the Crescent Glacier to the north. It's located 1 km southwest of the Conrad Kain hut. Snowpatch was the last of the Bugaboo Spires to be climbed. All routes require technical climbing, Class 5.6 or up. Its steep rock faces drop down about 500 m on all sides.

1. Southeast Corner ("Snowpatch Route") (August, 1940) Jack Arnold, Raffi Bedayn. Grade IV; 5.6+. From the Kain Hut head south on climber's trail then scree and boulders between a shoulder of the peak and the Bugaboo Glacier. After rounding the shoulder, hike up steep gullies to gain a notch in the east ridge at 2650 m. Climb 5 exposed pitches to reach the large snowpatch. Ascend slabs on the left side to gain a ramp leading right where the face steepens. Turn up the ramp after two 4th class pitches to several 5.6 cracks and hand traverses. There are new fixed rappel stations for descent on the West Face (1 60 meter rope is sufficient). Equipment: Rock protection to 4 inches, slings

Trips within 1 km
33 2006.08.05 Bugaboo Northeast Ridge Route Mike Warren
40 2006.07.29 Pigeon Spire (West Ridge 5.4) after work with a Brazilian Alex Joseph
48 2005.07.24 KMC 2005 Climbing Camp - The Vowells Doug Brown
37 2003.08.15 Snowpatch Spire, "Snowpatch Route" Route Michael Stanton
17 1999.07.23 Bugaboo Spire - Kain route Drew Brayshaw
10 null Pigeon Spire - West Ridge Route Toby Johnson
9 null Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge and Summit Ridge Traverse Route Toby Johnson


Paper Maps
1:250000Banff National Park Gem Trek
1:600000Southwest Alberta & Southeast British Columbia Gem Trek

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
12 Snowpatch - Northeast Face Doug Brown
10 Snowpatch Spire - West Face - Afternoon Alex Joseph
8 Snowpatch Spire from Kain Descent Mike Warren
8 Snowpatch Spire Southwest Face John Scurlock
7 Sunrise on Snowpatch Spire Michael Stanton
7 Surf's Up! - Snowpatch Spire Andrew Rennie
5 Restoration of Snowpatch and Bugaboo Spires (figuratively speaking) Ed Cooper
5 Snowpatch Spire - East Face Alex Joseph
5 Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboo Spire, Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col Panorama Alex Joseph
4 Snowpatch - S Face Brett Logan
4 Snowpatch at Sunrise David Begg
4 East Face of Snowpatch Spire from the North. Ed Cooper
4 Snowpatch Spire Seen from Bugaboo Spire, 1958 Ed Cooper
3 Snowpatch Spire Eric Dahlberg
3 Snowpatch from the Northeast Rick Collier
3 Snowpatch spire: the Patch Kyle Martens
3 Snowpatch Spire Hans Bauck
3 Snowpatch Spire - North Face Pierre Signore
3 Snowpatch Spire - East Face Pierre Signore
2 Sunshine Crack Ulysse Richard

Placename Photos
18 The Bugaboos and the Vowell Glacier Doug Brown
10 The Bugs: A View Northwest from the Catamount Stephen Skog
9 Looking West to the Bugaboos from Mount Ethelbert Dean Richards
6 Bugaboo Spire and Snowpatch Spire from West Brett Logan
5 Looking West to the Bugaboos from Frenchman Mountain Dean Richards
4 Bugaboos from Jet at 10,000 Metres Len Zedel
4 Helicopter Rescue in the Bugaboos Hans Bauck
4 The Bugaboos from Brenta Spire Paul Baker
3 Trail to the Kain Hut Pierre Signore