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Bugaboo Spire  British Columbia   #2535
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Purcell Mountains / Bugaboo Group

Height: 3204 m -> 10512 feet
Prominence?: 438 m  
Line Parent?: Howser Spire (2.5 km away, at bearing 224 degrees)
Greater Parent: Howser Spire (2.0 km away)

Location:   50.74556,-116.78889     50:44:44, -116:47:20   11U 514895 5621552 (47 km W of Edgewater). NTS Mapsheet: 082.K.10   AreaCode: FL06/HH48
First Ascent: Tuesday August 29, 1916 Conrad Kain; Albert MacCarthy, E. MacCarthy, John Vincent
Bugaboo Spire North Face
The Bugaboo Spire sits about 2 km east of the Columbia-Kootenay divide, between the Vowell Glacier to the west and the Crescent Glacier to the east. It offers some of the most spectacular alpine climbs climbing areas in Canada. First climbed by Conrad Kain and party in 1916, who applied the name Bugaboo to the peak for its famous gendarme. The name "Bugaboo" was used by miners to refer to Bugaboo Creek and Bugaboo Pass, but Kain certainly felt the name matched the peak. Bugaboo means "An object of obsessive, usually exaggerated fear or anxiety. As in: "Boredom, laziness and failure . . . These bugaboos, magnified by imagination, keep the workaholic running".

At the time of the first ascent, while Canada was engaged in World War I, it was the hardest technical climb to date and one of the finest moments of Canadian mountaineering. The climb in August 1916 was the crowning point of Conrad Kain's career. In the spring of 1917, Conrad Kain married H. Ferreira, and settled down at Wilmer, 5 km north of Invermere in the Columbia Valley. In addition to his marriage, the entry of the United States into the First World War probably reduced the flow of his mostly American clients into Canada.

Name Notes: A Bugaboo is a legendary scary creature, similar to bogeyman.

Trip Reports within 1 km
33 2006.08.05 Bugaboo Northeast Ridge Route Mike Warren
40 2006.07.29 Pigeon Spire (West Ridge 5.4) after work with a Brazilian Alex Joseph
48 2005.07.24 KMC 2005 Climbing Camp - The Vowells Doug Brown
37 2003.08.15 Snowpatch Spire, "Snowpatch Route" Route Michael Stanton
17 1999.07.23 Bugaboo Spire - Kain route Drew Brayshaw
9 null Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge and Summit Ridge Traverse Route Toby Johnson


Paper Maps
1:250000Banff National Park Canada: Map and Guide in One Gem Trek
1:600000Southwest Alberta Southeast B.C. Explorer's Map (Road Map) Gem Trek

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
18 The Bugaboos and the Vowell Glacier Doug Brown
11 Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Doug Brown
11 Bugaboo Spire Mike Warren
9 Bugaboo Spire North Face John Scurlock
7 On the Northeast ArÍte of Bugaboo Spire Michael Stanton
7 Upper Bits of Bugaboo Spire Mike Warren
7 Bugaboo Spire with Cobalt Lake Myk Kurth
6 East Face Bugaboo Spire Ed Cooper
6 Esther Topping Out on Lion's Way Mike Warren
6 Bugaboo Spire and Snowpatch Spire from West Brett Logan
6 Snowpatch, Bugaboo, and Donkey's Ears from Applebee Brett Logan
6 Esther on Pitch 4 Mike Warren
5 The Great Gendarme on Bugaboo Spire Drew Brayshaw
4 Bugaboo Spire - S + NE Ridges Brett Logan
4 Bugaboos from Jet at 10,000 Metres Len Zedel
4 Bugaboo Spire - NE Ridge Paul Baker

Placename Photos
10 The Bugs: A View Northwest from the Catamount Stephen Skog
9 Looking West to the Bugaboos from Mount Ethelbert Dean Richards
8 Crossing the Great Gendarme on Bugaboo Spire Rick Collier
5 Bugaboo - Blizzard on the Kain Route Pierre Signore
5 Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboo Spire, Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col Panorama Alex Joseph
5 Bugaboo Spire - Kain Route - Gendarme Pitch Brett Logan
5 Looking West to the Bugaboos from Frenchman Mountain Dean Richards
5 Restoration of Snowpatch and Bugaboo Spires (figuratively speaking) Ed Cooper
4 Helicopter Rescue in the Bugaboos Hans Bauck
4 East Face of Snowpatch Spire from the North. Ed Cooper
4 The Bugaboos from Brenta Spire Paul Baker
4 Climbing the North East Ridge on Bugaboo Spire Toby Johnson
4 Bugaboo Spire Hans Bauck
4 Snowpatch Spire Seen from Bugaboo Spire, 1958 Ed Cooper
4 Below the Great Gendarme on Bugaboo Drew Brayshaw
3 Bugaboo Spire from the Kain Hut Back Door Drew Brayshaw
3 Bugaboo Spire - East Face Pierre Signore
3 Mike Budd on the Great Gendarme Rick Collier