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Mount Kitchener  Alberta   #25
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Winston Churchill Range

Height: 3500 m -> 11483 feet
Prominence?: 300 m  
Line Parent?: North Twin (7.8 km away, at bearing 276 degrees)
Greater Parent: North Twin (8.0 km away)

Location:   52.21617,-117.32085     52:12:58, -117:19:15   11U 478079 5785130 (88 km E of Mica Creek). NTS Mapsheet: 083.C.03   AreaCode: FL27/CD12
First Ascent: Sunday July 03, 1927 A. Ostheimer; H. Fuhrer
North Face of Mount Kitchener
This peak is #10 on the Height List for Alberta .Located at the northeast end of the Columbia Icefield. Mount Kitchener is one of the peaks that ring the Columbia Icefield. The impressive north face of the mountain is bad rock, with no convenient bivi ledges, and typically takes more than 24 hours with a light pack from a bivi at the base.

Name Notes: The mountain was named after the Horatio Herbert, 1st Earl Kitchener (1850-1916) who became the foremost British military figure since the Duke of Wellington. He was commander in chief of India, then became field marshall in 1909. He was lost at sea when the cruiser HMS Hampshire hit a mine while on a mission to assist the military efforts of the Russians.

1. From Snow Dome gentle ski ascent (with some crevasse danger). Climb up to the head of the Athabasca Glacier then go around the west side of a heavily crevassed area on the south end of Snow Dome, then ski northwest to the top of Snow Dome. From the summit of Snow Dome head northwest to the Snow Dome - Kitchener col, the top of the Dome Glacier. Watch for crevasses in the col. The summit of Kitchener is 2 km NE from the col. Equipment: skis, glacier gear
2. From Athabasca River (1927.07.03) Alfred Ostheimer, Hans Fuhrer. Exposed to cornices. This historic approach is definitely more difficult than the ski ascent. From a camp in the Athabasca River valley at the foot of the Columbia Icefall, the original ascent was up a steep couloir on the eastern side of the icefall. This involved going beneath some overhanging cornices. Once on the icefield they climbed North Twin, then Stutfield, Kitchener and Snow Dome in one 30 hour continuous session.

Trips within 1 km
25 1927.07.03 Stutfield Peak, Mount Kitchener - First Ascents: Alfred Ostheimer, Hans Fuhrer Keith Freeman


Paper Maps
1:75000Columbia Icefield Gem Trek
1:250000Banff National Park Gem Trek
1:400000Best of The Icefields Parkway Gem Trek
1:400000Canadian Rockies Gem Trek
1:600000Southwest Alberta & Southeast British Columbia Gem Trek

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
12 Mount Kitchener and the Sunwapta River at Dawn David Wasserman
7 Northwest Ramparts of Mount Kitchener Rick Collier
7 Mount Kitchener's Southeast Face from Mount Athabasca's North Glacier David Wasserman
6 North Face of Mount Kitchener Eric Coulthard
5 Kitchener From SE Ridge Tim Deutscher
4 Mount Kitchener from the Northeast Rick Collier
3 The Dome Glacier and Mount Kitchener Rick Collier

Placename Photos
13 Columbia Icefield Panorama from Tangle Ridge Eric Coulthard
11 Tangle Ridge and the Columbia Icefields Eric Coulthard
10 Wilcox Peak Panorama Ian Hunt
7 Snow Dome, Mount Columbia, Mount Kitchener, and North Twin Rick Collier
5 Snow Dome, the Dome Glacier, and Mount Kitchener David Wasserman