Mountain Page   Home     Help   Index     Login
Mount Sir Donald  British Columbia   #2377
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Selkirk Mountains / Duncan Ranges / Sir Donald Range

Height: 3284 m -> 10774 feet
Prominence?: 874 m  
Line Parent?: Mount Dawson (12.4 km away, at bearing 177 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Dawson (12.0 km away)

Location:   51.26310,-117.43140     51:15:47, -117:25:53   11U 469901 5679172 (33 km W of Golden). NTS Mapsheet: 082.N.06   AreaCode: FL17/CE63
First Ascent: 1890 Emil Huber, Carl Sulzer, Harry Cooper (porter)
Mount Sir Donald's Super Classic Northwest Ridge
This technically demanding peak is blessed with good rock as well as the classic Matterhorn shape. There are no truly easy routes to its summit although some of the routes are not technically difficult. Even before its inclusion as one of the 50 classic climbs of North America the peak was a very popular objective indeed, especially the Northwest Ridge. It is worth noting that the peak seems to create its own weather at times as it towers above the surrounding peaks, and the lichen on the rock is very slippery when wet. The recorded routes on all sides range in rating from class 4 to 5.8+.

Name Notes: Originally named Syndicate Peak by Major Rogers in 1881 for the group who arranged the financing of the CPR. The name was later changed to honour Lord Strathcona, Donald Alexander Smith who was the head of the syndicate. It was Smith who drove the last spike at Craigellachie in November of 1885 thus completing the Trans Continental railway.

Route Summaries exist for this mountain, but are only available to paid members.

Trip Reports within 1 km
26 2018.08.22 Uto Peak - Southwest ridge. Philip Akins
76 2009.07.20 What A Wonderful World: Climbing Mount Sir Donald and Uto Peak Sandra McGuinness
36 2004.07.24 Back to Rogers Pass Lee Shepherd
49 2003.08.17 Long Day on the Northwest ArÍte of Sir Donald Michael Stanton
33 2002.07.21 Uto - The Consolation Prize Drew Brayshaw
33 2001.08.18 Sir Donald in a Day (from Calgary) Orvel Miskiw
14 null Uto Peak - Southwest ridge Route Jason Dixon


Paper Maps
1:400000Canadian Rockies Gem Trek
1:600000Southwest Alberta & Southeast British Columbia Gem Trek

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
19 Mount Sir Donald's Super Classic Northwest Ridge Jason Dixon
14 Mount Sir Donald and Avalanche Peak from Mount Rogers Dave Sproule
12 Mount Sir Donald David Wasserman
10 Sir Donald West Face and Waterfall Drew Brayshaw
8 Climbing on the Northwest Ridge of Sir Donald Andrew McLeod
6 Mount Sir Donald from Durrand-Symphony Col Lee Lau
6 Sir Donald from the East (Telephoto) Rick Collier
6 Sir Donald from Uto Andrew McLeod
5 Sir Donald - North Face Drew Brayshaw
5 Mount Sir Donald - West face Jason Dixon
5 West Face of Mt. Sir Donald From Base Drew Brayshaw
5 Icefall on Approach to Perly Rock at Toe of Vaux Glacier Lee Lau
5 View Looking Upslope to Perly Rock above Icefall Lee Lau
5 Downlimbing the Northwest Arete - Mount Sir Donald Hans Bauck
5 Mount Sir Donald with Paintbrushes Ed Cooper
5 Glacier Crest and Approach to Illicellewaet via Great Glacier Trail Lee Lau
4 Perly Rock from Downslope Lee Lau
4 The Northwest Ridge of Mount Sir Donald Jason Dixon
3 View from Asulkan Valley to Sir Donald, Vaux Glacier and Perly Rock Lee Lau
3 View from Illicellewaet Drainage up Vaux Glacier to Lookout Col Lee Lau
3 Mount Sir Donald from Lookout Col Lee Lau
3 Climbing the Northwest Arete - Mount Sir Donald Hans Bauck
3 Sir Donald Range Eric Dahlberg
3 Northwest Ridge of Mount Sir Donald Scott Pomeroy
3 Mount Sir Donald Dan Hay
2 Mount Sir Donald from the Northwest Rick Collier

Placename Photos
13 Mount MacDonald North Face Jason Dixon
10 North Face of Mount MacDonald Jeff Volp
8 Rogers Pass from Mount Rogers Dave Sproule
7 Terminal Peaks Panorama Jason Dixon