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Mount Waddington  British Columbia   #21
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges

Height: 4019 m -> 13186 feet
Prominence?: 3289 m above Rose Lake Pass
Line Parent?: Fairweather Mountain (1139.9 km away, at bearing 322 degrees)
Greater Parent: Fairweather Mountain (1139.9 km away)

Location:   51.37371,-125.26356     51:22:25, -125:15:49   10U 342455 5693816NTS Mapsheet: 092.N.06   AreaCode: FM15/DC76
First Ascent: 1936 Fritz Wiessner; William House: SW Face
Waddington from Northwest Summit
This peak is #3 on the Height List for British Columbia . This peak is #2 in Prominence List for British Columbia .Located in southwestern British Columbia, at the head of Bute and Knight Inlets. The mountain was first sighted by R.P.Bishop in 1922 while doing surveys from Mount Good Hope. It was then sighted again by Don and Phyllis Munday in 1925 from Mount Arrowsmith, on Vancouver Island. Between 1926 and 1934, they led several expeditions to the mountain. They successfully reached its lower northwest summit in 1928, but decided that the main summit was too risky. In 1948, Don Munday published the book The Unknown Mountain, documenting the couple's Mount Waddington challenges and adventures.

Ascents: The first ascent of the main peak was in 1936 by Weissner and House; in 1942 by the Beckey brothers; and in 1950 by (a) Cook, DeSaussure, Long and Huston, and (b) Steck and bettler. All these were Americans. The first Canadian team was Aldolf Bitterlich (Alberni), Ulf Bitterlich, Arno Meier (Campbell River), John Owen (Vancouver), and Christian Schiel (Powell River). First Canadian Ascent.

Name Notes: Adopted in 1928, after Alfred Waddington, who promoted the dream of a transcontinental railway from 1858 to 1872, via the Homathko river and Bute Inlet. According to BC Placename cards, R. P. Bishop, the surveyor, originally proposed the name "Cradock" in 1923. Don and Phylis Munday used the name "Mystery Mountain", but neither Cradock, nor "Mystery Mountain" were accepted by the government.

Third highest mountain in British Columbia, after Fairweather Mountain and Mount Quincy Adams.

1. Bravo Glacier Approach 50 degrees, 5.7, 2100m. Parties these days typically land via helicopter where the Tiedemann and Bravo Glaciers join. (51:21:31-125:11:39), 1860m. From here they ascend the icefall on the Bravo Glacier to get up to Bravo Col (51:21:51-125:14:07, 3000m. Continue onto the Spearman Saddle 3250m, which is the Spearman-Waddington col (southeast ridge of Waddington). Good campspot. From here climb across the bergschrund at 3800m, below the tooth. Then climb up ledges to the notch between the Tooth and the main summit tower (about 3860m). This is within a rope length of the chimney to the main summit. The chimney is about 3 pitches. There are three chockstones, one of which people often pull themselves up on the sling. (Aid). Above the chimney is a snow gulley, which 2 pitches later leads to the summit.

Trips within 1 km
83 2003.06.18 Pantheon and Waddington Range Traverse David Campbell
52 2002.04.22 Ski Camp in the Waddington Range Sandra McGuinness
77 2000.06.15 Mount Waddington-South Face from Dais Glacier Mike Anderson (Utah)
38 1996.05.15 Mount Waddington on Skis John Baldwin
18 1996.05.05 Waddington Northwest Summit - Angel Glacier Route Route Fred Touche
36 1995.04.30 Waddington Circumski John Baldwin
67 1983.07.23 Mt. Waddington ACC Summer Climbing Camp Orvel Miskiw
63 1979.08.10 Mount Waddington Main Summit 1979 Bill Maurer
7 null The Tooth - East Face Route Dick Culbert
9 null Waddington - Northeast Face Route Dick Culbert
21 null Waddington - Southeast Face (Normal Route) Route Dick Culbert
9 null Waddington - South Face Route Dick Culbert

2011.05.16 Victor Dolmage confirms Bishop's Prior Identification of 13000' peak Jeff Slack
2011.03.31 Mount Waddington - First Identified by R.P. Bishop Robin Tivy
2004.02.27 Rose Lake, not Forestdale Robin Tivy
2004.02.27 Forestdale is higher than Summit Lake Mike Cleven
2004.02.01 Is the saddle at Summit Lake? Mike Cleven

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
31 Waddington from Northwest Summit Fred Touche
23 Mount Waddington and Combatant Mtn. Don Funk
18 Mount Waddington - Southeast Side Don Funk
17 A Gap in the Northwest Ridge of Mount Waddington Don Funk
16 Mount Waddington Summit in Winter John Scurlock
16 Mount Waddington - Southwest Face Don Funk
14 Mount Waddington Summits Through the Clouds Janez Ales
14 Angel Glacier - Mount Waddington Don Funk
13 "High" on the Angel Glacier - Mount Waddington Don Funk
13 Mount Waddington - South Side Don Funk
10 Mount Waddington - Northwest Ridge Don Funk
10 Waddington and the Upper Tellot Jordan Peters
10 Mount Waddington from the Franklin Glacier Don Funk
8 Vintage Govt Aerial of Tiedemann Glacier and Mount Waddington Mike Cleven
8 Mount Waddington from the north Roger Griffiths
8 Waddington, East Face Jennifer Nageli
7 Mount Waddington from the Air Scott Pick
7 Mount Waddington - Main Summit Corey Aurala
6 Mount Waddington from NW Summit Alexandru Romanciuc
5 Waddington Aerial Jason Addy
5 Waddington from the East Steve Ogle
5 Mount Waddington Reflections Scott Pick
5 The Sunny South Face of Waddington Scott Pick
3 Waddington Complex John Robertson
3 Climbing on Mt. Waddington in 100 km/hr winds Brian Pegg

Placename Photos
24 Monarch Mountain from the Northwest Don Funk
21 Combatant Mountain and Mount Tiedemann from the Southwest Don Funk
14 Queen Bess from the East David Campbell
13 Mount Waddington - Northwest Summit Don Funk
12 Mount Waddington - Angel Glacier John Scurlock
12 Mount Waddington, Mount Munday, and Spearman Peak in the Morning Light Janez Ales
11 Monarch Mountain - Summit Pyramid from Northwest Don Funk
10 Mount Agur Summit Fred Touche
10 View West to Waddington Range Drew Brayshaw
6 Waddington Group Sunrise Drew Brayshaw
5 Waddington Range - North Aspect Scott Pick
3 Mount Waddington from the Air Scott Pick