| This peak is #16 on the Height List for Alberta . This peak is #12 in Prominence List for Alberta .The classic and recently reprinted Rockies book "The Canadian Rockies, New and Old Trails" by Arthur Coleman tells the story of his attempt in 1902 to climb the mountain. His description sounds very much like the route from Swan Pass: "From our beautiful camp ground we had a broad view of the mountain and icefield four miles to the north-west, and arranged for an attack upon it next day." Upon reaching the soft snow on the Glacier the travelling became difficult. Higher up the footing was better but crevasses and avalanches posed problems. "Halting on some projecting rocks at 10,550 feet, we held a council of war and decided that further climbing was too dangerous to risk. From clinometer readings made at our earlier halts the top of Brazeau Mountain, as we named it, is about five hundred feet above our stopping-point."|
Name Notes: The peak was named by Coleman in 1902 after the Brazeau River. The Brazeau River was named by Hector after Joseph E. Brazeau, a Hudson's Bay Company employee who was a translator on the Palliser Expedition.
1. S Face via Henry MacLeod (1923 July) A. Carpe, W.D. Harris, H. Palmer. scramble, no exposure, easy glacier travel. From summit of Henry MacLeod (see Henry MacLeod), traverse north along the ridge and over the top of Valad Peak. After the peak of Valad, keep to the east side of the ridge, on the glacier. (We roped up for this.) Then drop down into the broad Valad-Brazeau col. Rope is not required for final peak. From here work your way up the scree slopes to gain the summit. Some parts appear steep, but there is no exposure, and no rock climbing moves are required. However with a lot of fresh snow there would be avalanche danger. See
Route up Mount Brazeau from Valad-Brazeau Col
2. Brazeau-Valad Col Directly from Coronet Creek (1930 August) H. Fuhrer and party. tricky route finding. From a camp in Coronet Creek, head directly up the easiest looking slope running from the southwest up into the Col. This route is supposed to be a bit more difficult these days, because there is less permanent snow.
3. N.W. Ridge (1950 July) ACC Parties. Bit harder than S Face. From Coronet Creek, gain the Warren-Brazeau col, then climb the steep ridge between the snow and the rock. Rock towers to the north.