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Mount Winstone  British Columbia   #1829
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges

Height: 3135 m -> 10285 feet
Prominence?: 445 m  
Line Parent?: Monmouth Mountain (6.2 km away, at bearing 242 degrees)
Greater Parent: Monmouth Mountain (6.2 km away)

Location:   51.01833,-123.71250     51:01:06, -123:42:45   10U 450024 5652105NTS Mapsheet: 092.O.04   AreaCode: FM13/AH11
First Ascent: Friday July 26, 1963 Hutton, Himmelsbach, Suddaby
Mount Winstone North Face
A spectacular peak from the Falls Glacier. Fairly easy from Monmouth Glacier. Regarding the first ascent there is some confusion. According to Don Serl, Ian Kay, Joe Hutton, Alan Melville, and Howie Rode reached the lower east summit on July 31st, 1962. However, they did not have time to continue to the higher central summit. [ref: CAJ'63 pp71-75]. Using the same route (east branch of Falls Glacier and SE slopes), on July 26, 1963, Geoff Suddaby, Werner Himmelsbach, and Joe Hutton completed the first ascent of Mount Winstone, as previously noted. [ref: CAJ'64 pp64-67]

Name Notes: Named by Ian Kay after Harry Winstone, whose memorial is in the 1960 ACC Journal.


1. Southeast Ridge of East Summit (not complete to main summit) (1962) Hutton, Kay, Melville, Rode. Scramble. From upper Falls Glacier, reach col at southeastern head [2663m]. Cross head of East Falls glacier 1km SE to 2nd col [~2610m]. Traverse S about 750m across icefield draining into Chapman Creek to gain SE ridge crest [~2700m]. Follow this without difficulty to East Summit.
2. Northeast Spur of East Summit (incomplete) (1962) Hutton, Kay, Melville, Rode. From col at eastern head of Falls Glacier [2663m], climb easy rock to a final wall, which is circumvented via a steep, unstable chimney to gain the Northeast Shoulder [2969m]. A fine snow arete leads to the top, but conditions were poor, so the route was abandoned via neve to the south.
3. East ridge (complete to main summit) (1963) Himmelsbach, Hutchinson, Hutton, Suddaby. NTD. High traverse from East Peak, which is reached via its SE ridge (q.v.). Equipment: Rock scramble to glacier
4. Southeast Rib (1969) J. Crompton, S. Hendricks, A. Peterson, M. Peterson. From Chapman Glacier. (Only info is note of ascent in summit register.)
5. Southwest Rib (1966) Hendricks, Hubbard, Wettling. The "standard" route. Approach from head of Tchaikazan Glacier. One short roped pitch immediately above the glacier, then easy slabs and much broken rock/talus. (Leave rope at bottom.)
6. Passport Couloir (NE Couloir) (2002) A. Miller, F. Murphy, D. Serl. WI4. The couloir beneath the seracs east if the National Pillar can only be considered when the ice-cliffs are stable and there is no evidence of debris on the glacier below. Cross the schrund and simul-climb 3 pitches at 50 degree, moving left to the rock sidewall for protection. Climb 3 pitches of 50 degree-55 degreeice to the serac band. Overcome this via 45m of WI3 and 20m of WI4. Three moderate ice pitches lead to the summit snowfields.
7. Northeast Rib ("National Pillar") (1964) E. Kafer, M. Kafer, P. Plummer, K. Winterhalter. Class 5. Original description was of 350m of "steep, solid rock", mainly Class 4, with 2 pitches of Class 5. Later ascents have revealed a few hundred feet of scrambling [from the upper of two notches] followed by at least a dozen ropelengths of low- to mid-5th Class. Four to six pitches include short sections to about 5.7 or even 5.8. Underlying rock is very solid and has many square-cut holds, but there is considerable loose material on the surface. Overall grade merits at least D+.
8. North Face (Nelson-Collum) (1983) Begin on left side of face, directly beneath summit ice cliffs, several hundred metres west of National Pillar. 2 pitches of Class 4, then snow gully. Move left to snow rib; follow this 8 pitches to ice cliff. Climb serac directly (80 to 85 degree ice). Summit register says 15p total.
9. North Face (Pilling-Gerson) (1983) Climb 3rd class rock wall just left of cascading glacier from West Peak, then 55 ice gully just west of western subsidiary rock subsummit of Main Summit. Follow west summit ridge to top.
10. North Face (Beckey-Silver) (1986) Class 5. Begin as per Pilling-Gerson (q.v.), then directly up steep snow and ice toward west summit ridge, east (left) of Pilling-Gerson route. Dangerous snow on ice in upper section, so finish with 6 pitches of Class 4 and 5 rock on neighbouring rib.
 

11. Northeast Buttress of West Summit (1972) F. Beckey, D. Davis, P. Leatherman. Pass west (right) of toe of buttress, then climb steep ice slopes to narrow ice ridge. Climb two pitches of "quite steep ice" to rock. Eight pitches of class 4 and 5 climbing lead to summit ridge a short scramble east of the summit.
12. West Ridge (1964) E.Kafer, M.Kafer, P.Plummer, K.Winterhalter. 5th Class. Ascend W arm of Falls Glacier to W col [~2810m] between Winstone and Corner Peak. Follow ridge over many pinnacles. Rappel south and regain ridge with two 5th class pitches to avoid a "sharp and jagged" section. Just before summit there is an overhanging gendarme which requires a 100-foot rappel.
13. Southeast Face of West Summit (unknown date) unknown party. Culbert's Guide (1965) says of the West Summit, "Scree gulies on the SE face provide a much easier route from Tchaikazan Glacier", which seems likely, but no further details are provided. A traverse from high on the standard Southwest Rib of the Central Summit looks feasible, even straightforward.

Trips within 1 km
55 2004.07.22 Getting Schooled in the Tchaikazan: Falls River 2004 Jordan Peters
22 2002.09.22 Mount Winstone - Passport Couloir Route Ade Miller
65 1988.08.06 The Great Tchaikazan Expedition Klaus Haring

Comments
2017.10.03 Note regarding first ascent from relative of Harry Winstone Robin Tivy
2004.01.01 Proof from old Mtn record field Robin Tivy
 

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
18 The Valley East of Falls River Jordan Peters
10 Mount Winstone North Face Don Serl

Placename Photos
13 Smokey Moon over Winstone Jordan Peters
10 Porteau Mountain Group from East Klaus Haring
10 Griswold Pass and Meson Peak Klaus Haring
8 Goin' for a Walk Jordan Peters
7 Peaks of the Northern Lillooet Icefield -- Labelled Panorama Jordan Peters
6 Exposure on Mount Winstone's National Pillar Jordan Peters