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Monmouth Mountain  British Columbia   #1815
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges

Height: 3182 m -> 10440 feet
Prominence?: 1602 m above Farrow Pass
Line Parent?: Good Hope Mountain (31.4 km away, at bearing 302 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Queen Bess (62.4 km away)

Location:   50.99222,-123.79166     50:59:32, -123:47:30   10U 444440 5649258NTS Mapsheet: 092.J.13   AreaCode: FM03/JH99
First Ascent: 1951 A. Melville; I. Kay; N. Carter; T. Marston; D. Blair; W. Sparling; H. Genschorek
Southeastside of Monmouth Mountain
This peak is #76 in Prominence List for British Columbia .An impressive, heavily glaciated peak at the head of the Tchaikazan River and Glacier. This peak is the highest in the Tchaikazan Glacier area with high-angle crumbly brown rock, and impressive cliffs in parts. The easiest route is the southeast ridge.

Name Notes: Mount Monmouth adopted in 1924, later changed to Monmouth Mountain in 1951, after H.M.S. Monmouth, sunk in action in 1914. See Peaks named after Battle of Coronel.


1. Southeast Ridge (1951) Class 3-4. The SE ridge is the easiest route on the mountain, Class 3-4 with most parties using ropes. Lots of complex and interesting little cliffs and ledges, but not too difficult. Some loose rock; a long day from base camp.
2. South Face (1973) 45 degree snow/ice. Long spring snow-gully from the Edmond Glacier leads straight to the gap between the two summits. The upper part of this couloir can also be reached by descending diagonally from the SE ridge on snow or scree. This route can be used for a rope free decent back to the SE col even when the gully is bare (beware of falling rock).
 

3. Northwest Arete (1975) Technical ice, Class 4 . Rifferswill (North) Glacier + Northwest Arete to upper Northeast Ridge. Difficult icefall, Class 4 on narrow rock ridge, mixed climbing.
 

4. Northwest Face (1983) Rowat. 250 m of 50 snow/ice to the left of couloir.
5. West-Northwest Ridge (1986) Class 5, mixed. Long, some steep, some loose, some mid-5th at least; bypass gendarmes on south (5th class); 3 pitches of mixed climbing to finish.
6. Southwest Ridge (1990) Class 4. From lake west of Monmouth, traverse southeast, then ascend subsidiary glacier south of West-Northwest Ridge Ridge; 5 pitches of generally solid 4th class rock to finish.
7. Northwest Face Direct (1993) Down, Kay. 300 m of 50-55 snow/ice in couloir direct to West Summit.
 

Trips within 1 km
93 2006.04.15 Across the Coast Mountains: From Taseko Lake to Bute Inlet Scott Nelson
60 1996.05.04 The Great Tchaikazan - Lillooet Traverse Part 1: Success Klaus Haring
66 1990.04.28 Lillooet Icefield Traverse - Monmouth to Meager Creek Rick Collier
65 1988.08.06 The Great Tchaikazan Expedition Klaus Haring
48 1982.07.25 Monmouth via Taseko Lakes and Chapman Glacier Robin Tivy

Comments
 

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
16 Monmouth Mountain - North Side Don Funk
14 Upper Tchaikazan Glacier Rick Collier
11 Upper Couloir on Monmouth Mountain Rick Collier
10 Lower Slopes of Monmouth Rick Collier
8 Southeastside of Monmouth Mountain Klaus Haring

Placename Photos
10 Porteau Mountain Group from East Klaus Haring
10 Griswold Pass and Meson Peak Klaus Haring
9 Looking Down to the Southeast Col on Monmouth Rick Collier
8 Stanley Peak above the upper Bridge Glacier Klaus Haring
8 Pebble S1 and Pebble Peak from the South Klaus Haring
7 Tchaikazan Glacier Terminus Fred Touche