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Mount Steele  Yukon Territory   #18
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Saint Elias Mountains / Icefield Ranges

Height: 5073 m -> 16644 feet
Prominence?: 813 m  
Line Parent?: Mount Lucania (11.5 km away, at bearing 226 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Lucania (11.5 km away)

Location:   61.09306,-140.31056     61:05:35, -140:18:38   7V 537179 6773349NTS Mapsheet: 115.F.01   AreaCode: GO10/AD91
First Ascent: 1935 Walter Wood and his wife Foresta Wood, I Pearce Hazard, Joseph Fobes, Harrison Wood, Hans Fuhrer
Mount Steele North Face (Yukon)
This peak is #15 on the Height List for Yukon Territory .Mount Steele, the 5th highest mountain in Canada, is located at the head of Steele Glacier, which eventually flows into the Donjek River. The original ascent was the last first ascent of a major peak in the Saint Elias Mountains that did not use air support.

See also Lucania - Attempt at Winter Ascent Jan 2018.


1. East Ridge 2700 m high, 6 km, 3 camps, crampons and rope. From the base of the E ridge at 2100 m, climb first 450 metres on mixed snow and rock, not too steep. Camp 1 at 2800 m. Next day up to 3,400 m and set up camp on a ledge dug out on the lower lip of a large crevasse. Next day moved camp to 4,000 m. After several days rest, the party used a slightly different route, put in ice screws and belayed across the ice section. Once above this section it was simply a long slog to the summit. For a better description, read [Trip6-Traverse of St Elias, and Mount Steele]
2. SE Ridge From the summit of SE Steele (4300m [421 698]) ski down to a big col at 3860m [406 706]. From there, ski W to another col (a good high camp) at 4020m [392 718]. Begin your summit day by dodging a snow nipple at 4300m [384 722] by an upward traverse straight W and just missing the peak on the S side. Climb straight up the ridge until forced off the ridge and onto the adjacent face on the left or right. We were on the right one, which involves about 700m of continuous 40-50 degree snow climbing up slopes and between ice cliffs. The face is extremely exposed as it drops 2200m down to the glacier below. Near the summit (4750m) angle right to avoid the final steep headwall and gain the flats to the N of the summit. Continue easily back S to the summit. Summit day would be a good 10-20 hour day, I suspect. [Trip3337-Southeast Ridge by J Frimer]
3. West Ridge, NW Peak (2000) Jerimy Frimer and Others. Narrow ridge, exposed. From the end of the skiable terrain at [290 802], climb straight E through wild terrain involving narrow ridge, ice blocks, and lots of exposure. Gain the N summit of NW Steele (4160m [318 797]). [Trip3335-Steele Northwest Ridge]

Trips within 1 km
31 2015.05.15 Walsh Steele Donjek; climb, ski, walk, float Jeff Crompton
12 1999.05 Mount Steele - Southeast Ridge Route Jeremy Frimer
13 1999.05 Mount Steele - North Ridge Route Jeremy Frimer
85 1992.05.09 Traverse of Wrangell and Saint Elias Ranges (Mount Steele) Betsy Waddington
53 1988.05.01 Coast Range, Saint Elias and Chugach Mountains Traverse (multiyear) Route Dave Williams

Comments
 

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
17 Mount Steele from the North Eric DeGiuli
11 Mount Steele - Southeast Ridge Don Funk
10 Mount Steele from Steele Glacier Betsy Waddington
8 Alpenglow on Mount Steele Eric DeGiuli
8 Mount Steele from col on SE ridge Pascale Marceau
7 View from Hoge Glacier towards Mount Steele David Campbell
6 Mount Steele - Upper Southeast Ridge Fred Touche
6 Mount Steele North Face (Yukon) Eric DeGiuli

Placename Photos
10 Mount Lucania, Mount Steele and Mount Walsh Don Funk
9 Millar's High Life Jeremy Frimer
9 Dennis Glacier at base of Mount Lucania and Mount Steele Pascale Marceau
8 Mount Lucania and Mount Steele from SE ridge of Mount Steele Pascale Marceau
8 Mount Lucania and Mount Steele Edwina Podemski