1. East Ridge 2700 m high, 6 km, 3 camps, crampons and rope. From the base of the E ridge at 2100 m, climb first 450 metres on mixed snow and rock, not too steep. Camp 1 at 2800 m. Next day up to
3,400 m and set up camp on a ledge dug out on the lower lip of a large crevasse. Next day moved camp to 4,000 m. After several days rest, the party used a slightly different route, put in ice screws and belayed across the ice section. Once above this section it was simply a long slog to the summit. For a better description, read
[Trip6-Traverse of St Elias, and Mount Steele]
2. SE Ridge From the summit of SE Steele (4300m [421 698]) ski down to a big col at 3860m [406 706]. From there, ski W to another col (a good high camp) at 4020m [392 718]. Begin your summit day by dodging a snow nipple at 4300m [384 722] by an upward traverse straight W and just missing the peak on the S side. Climb straight up the ridge until forced off the ridge and onto the adjacent face on the left or right. We were on the right one, which involves about 700m of continuous 40-50 degree snow climbing up slopes and between ice cliffs. The face is extremely exposed as it drops 2200m down to the glacier below. Near the summit (4750m) angle right to avoid the final steep headwall and gain the flats to the N of the summit. Continue easily back S to the summit. Summit day would be a good 10-20 hour day, I suspect.
[Trip3337-Southeast Ridge by J Frimer]
3. West Ridge, NW Peak (2000) Jerimy Frimer and Others. Narrow ridge, exposed. From the end of the skiable terrain at [290 802], climb straight E through wild terrain involving narrow ridge, ice blocks, and lots of exposure. Gain the N summit of NW Steele (4160m [318 797]).
[Trip3335-Steele Northwest Ridge]