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Mount Chephren  Alberta   #1704
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Waputik Mountains

Height: 3274 m -> 10741 feet
Prominence?: 443 m  
Line Parent?: Howse Peak (3.1 km away, at bearing 177 degrees)
Greater Parent: Howse Peak (3.0 km away)

Location:   51.84054,-116.68298     51:50:26, -116:40:59   11U 521841 5743351 (15 km S of Saskatchewan Crossing). (51 km N of Field). NTS Mapsheet: 082.N.15   AreaCode: FL16/IG48
First Ascent: 1913 J.W.A. Hickson, E. Feuz Jr.
Mount Chephren from Waterfall Lake
This peak is #76 on the Height List for Alberta .Mount Chephren is located west of the Icefields Parkway above Chephren Lake and north of Howse Peak. The walls of the East Face rise over 1600 metres from the valley floor, and most who see it are left gazing in awe. On any given summer day throngs of tourists can be seen parked along the Icefields Parkway taking pictures. This has to be one of the most photographed peaks in the Rockies.

Name Notes: It was originally named Pyramid Mountain in 1897 by J. Norman Collie who also named White Pyramid. Around 1918 the government tendered the prominent mountaineer J.M Thorton to come up with a different name because there was already a mountain northwest of Jasper named Pyramid Mountain. After careful research about Egypt, he named the peak Chephren, who was the fourth pharaoh of the Fourth Dynasty of Egypt. Chephren was also the builder of the second of the three Great Pyramids.

1. East Face Routes The East Face of the mountain is home to two extreme Alpine Climbing Routes. The East Face is graded at V 5.9 A1 and was ascended by P.A. Geiser, J.R. Hudson, and A. Gran in 1965. The Wild Thing is graded at VI 5.9 A3 W4 and was ascended by Barry Blanchard, W. Robinson, and P. Arbic in March 1987. The normal route is a Grade II climb that goes up the south slopes directly below the impressive East Face of White Pyramid and was ascended by J.W.A Hickson and E. Feuz Jr. in 1913. The mountain can also be scrambled up the south slopes proper to gain the west ridge.

There is also a new/recent route called "Leftover Rib" on the left side of the face which is described in the 2001 AAJ. It was put up by Raphael Slawinski and Jeff Nazarchuk and is graded V 5.8.

For all routes except the Wild Thing, access is from the Chephren Lake Trail out of the Waterfowl Lakes Campground. Take the trail to the lake, then go around the left side. For the Wild Thing, park at the pullout at the northernmost Waterfowl Lake.

Trips within 1 km
35 2009.05.01 White Pyramid as a Day Trip on Skis Vern Dewit
30 2008.05.03 White Pyramid in winter Ross Mailloux
49 2007.07.27 Howse NE Buttress Jason Thompson
58 1989.07.19 Mt Chephren from Chephren Lake Paul Kubik
24 1987.04.04 A Winter Ascent of White Pyramid Rick Collier

2012.03.05 Location Notes Robin Tivy

Paper Maps
1:70000Bow Lake & Saskatchewan Crossing Gem Trek
1:250000Banff National Park Gem Trek
1:400000Best of The Icefields Parkway Gem Trek
1:400000Canadian Rockies Gem Trek
1:600000Southwest Alberta & Southeast British Columbia Gem Trek

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
11 Mount Chephren from Waterfall Lake Kevin Altheim
8 Howse Peak, White Pyramid and Mount Chephren Eric Coulthard
8 Mount Chephren in Winter Steve Sproule
7 Mount Chephren Alpenglow Eric Coulthard
6 Chephren, White Pyramid, and Epaulette from the North Rick Collier
4 Mount Chephren and North Waterfowl Lake David Wasserman
3 Mount Chephren - East Face in winter Kevin Altheim

Placename Photos
10 Howse Peak, White Pyramid, Mount Chrephen and Others from Mount Noyes Eric Coulthard
10 Howse Peak Range from Mount Noyes Eric Coulthard
10 Peaks Southeast of the Kaufmann Peaks Rick Collier
10 Howse Peak from Highway 93 along Waterfowl Lake Kevin Altheim
5 White Pyramid and Mount Chephren Eric Coulthard