1. Access from Icefields Parkway to S end Chephren Lake From the Waterfall Lakes campground on the Icefields Parkway, follow the signed trail to Chephren Lake. Then follow a somewhat tricky trail along the southern shoreline to the east end of the lake. (In winter ski across lake)
Distance: 5 km
AvgTime: 3 hours
2. Access to West side via Blaeberry Road Rough road. From Golden BC, drive north to Moberly, (about 20km) then turn off onto the [Roadx3806-Blaeberry Road]. Drive north for 49 km, then find the [Roadx4369-Howse Pass Trail](Thompson Trail). Then hike up Ebon Creek and make camp.
3. SW Face from Ebon Creek (1958) P. Boswell, I Keith, A. Mason. Some objective danger. From camp in meadows on the N Fork of Ebon Creek (6800'), head for the southerly icefield of Howse. 1 hour to the morainal scree bowl directly beneath the SW face. Ascend snow couloir that drains W face of Howse. (objective danger). Gain rock ribs on the NW side of couloir. Scramble on snow and rock to summit snowfield. Kick steps to summit. See [Trip217-Rick Collier].
Distance: 5 km round trip
Equipment: Ice axe
AvgTime: 7 hours to top, descent 4 hours
4. NW Ridge (August 1902) J.N.Collie, Hugh Stutfield, G. Weed, H.Wooley, H. Kaufmann. Scramble on steep snowslopes and scree. AJ-21-372.
5. East Face There have been some hard winter routes put up on the East face which is the face left of NE buttress. "Life By The Drop" is graded VI W15+, "M-16" is rated VI W17+ A2, and "Howse of Cards" is rated VI W16X M7. This information can be found in Waterfall Ice 4th edition and also on www.gravsport.com, which is a website edited by Will Gadd.
6. NE Butress (1967) Don Vockeroth, Lloyd MacKay, and Ken Baker. Grade of V 5.8 A0 and at its time was the most difficult route in the Rockies. . From Chephren Lake via the S side through boulders to the E morraine. W across glacier and up to 150' of easy ledges to grey band. At lowest overhanging white rock traverse left for 150' and slightly downwards. Climb up snow gulley, then back to ridge. Follow separated ridge to top of yellow band, about half way up, then steep rock.
Distance: Elev gain 3700'