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Mount Logan  Yukon Territory   #14
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Saint Elias Mountains / Icefield Ranges

Height: 5959 m -> 19551 feet
Prominence?: 5250 m above Mentasta Pass
Line Parent?: Denali (621.0 km away, at bearing 301 degrees)
Greater Parent: Denali (621.0 km away)

Location:   60.56667,-140.40388     60:34:00, -140:24:14   7V 532679 6714670NTS Mapsheet: 115.C.09   AreaCode: GO00/FE60
First Ascent: Tuesday June 23, 1925 A. MacCarthy; H. Lambar; W. Foster; N. Read
Logan Massif from the Northeast
This peak is #1 on the Height List for Yukon Territory . This peak is #1 in Prominence List for Yukon Territory .Mount Logan is located in Kluane National Park in southwestern Yukon. It is the highest mountain in Canada and the second highest in North America. The Logan massif rises about 3000 m from the surrounding glaciers and has the largest base circumference of any mountain on Earth. A glaciated plateau, about 20 km long and 5 km wide covers the top of the massif. Numerous ridges, some of them unclimbed, lead up to the plateau from all directions. About a dozen peaks rise from the plateau - the highest, being Mount Logan's main summit. Map of Logan Plateau Due to its proximity to the Gulf of Alaska, severe snow storms can hit the upper part of the mountain any time of the year. The climbing season is from late April to early July. Generally, the weather deteriorates as the summer progresses.

Anyone climbing Mount Logan must apply for a mountaineering license at least 90 days before starting the climb. A wilderness permit, at $5 per day up to a maximum of $50, is also required for anyone staying overnight in Kluane National Park. The mountain is normally accessed by ski-equipped aircraft or helicopter. Air charters are available at Haines Junction, Silver City, and Burwash Landing in the Yukon, and at Yakutat and Chitina River in Alaska. Aircraft landing permits, at $30 per landing in the park, are required. Some parties use skis to approach the mountain from the Alaska Highway or the Gulf of Alaska. For communications, high frequency, single-side band, two-way radios are normally available from air charter companies. Satellite phones can also be used.

Name Notes: The mountain was named in honor of William Edmond Logan who was the first director of the Geological Survey of Canada (GSC). From the time he was appointed on April 14,1842 untill his retirement in 1869, he laid the groundwork for the systematic geological survey of the entire country. He was knighted "Sir William", by Queen Victoria at Windsor Castle in 1856.


1. Access: King Trench from Alaska Highway Glacier Travel. From the Alaska Highway hike to the head of Slims Creek to the terminus of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. Ski up the south fork of the Kaskawulsh to a pass north of Queen Mary. Head down the Hubbard Glacier to Water Pass, the low point along the long ridge connecting Mount Logan with Mount Vancouver. Cross the Seward and Columbus Glaciers across the Alaska border. Go clockwise around table mountain and gain the Quintino Sella Glacier and follow it westward to the King Trench base camp. See King Trench from Alaska Highway for details. Equipment: Sleds
2. King Trench Route (May-July,1925) Albert MacCarthy, Norman Read, Allen Carpe, William Foster, H.Lambart, Andy Taylor . Grade II+ Steep snow, high altitude. From base camp, head east into the King Trench. Avoid crevasses at the mouth of the trench by staying left or by going to the far right and squeezing between the crevasses and avalanche slopes. The trench is about 2 km wide and it is wise travel close its centre to avoid avalanches. A reasonably safe place to camp exists at 169191. The next convenient camp site is near the end of the trench at the King Col (215173). From the King Col, head north and climb about 200 m of up to 50-degree snow, skirting left of the first icefall. Continue east as the slope eases until you reach the second icefall. Some parties set up camp past the second icefall while others continue through the third icefall to a good campsite at 241182. A few hundred meters past the last campsite, a huge bergschrund can open up in late season but is usually spanned by a strong snow bridge. The last place for relatively sheltered camp site is at 255184. To reach the plateau while avoiding crevasses, cross AINA-Prospectors Col just left (267183) of Prospector's Peak. Past the col, go left around a few crevasses while descending to the plateau. Climb over West Peak and then drop down to a basin north of the main peak. To reach the summit, climb up to and then along the main peak's east ridge. You may want to rope up on the final section of the ridge, which resembles a roof top. King Trench - Details and Map

Trips within 1 km
26 2001.05.04 Loganberry Expedition: Part 2 -- Parados (Calgary to Kluane Lake, May 4-9) Rick Collier
48 2001.05.04 Loganberry Expedition - Part 1 of 7 Rick Collier
116 1998.05.04 The Logan Dissolution - Solo Climb of Mount Logan Fred Touche
33 1989.05.02 Mt Logan, Ski Out via Slims River Brian Waddington
53 1988.05.01 Coast Range, Saint Elias and Chugach Mountains Traverse (multiyear) Route Dave Williams
74 1984.02.17 Mount Logan Winter Expedition 1984 Bill Maurer
61 1979.04.01 Mount Logan and Back without Air Support Errol T.R. Smith
31 1900.01.01 Logan - King Trench Route Fred Touche
11 null Logan - Hubsew Ridge Variation Route Jeremy Frimer
17 null Mount Logan East Peak - Generic Route Description Route Robin Tivy

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Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
35 Logan Massif from the Northeast Fred Touche
20 Warbler Ridge up to Summit of Mount Logan Frank W. Baumann
16 Lower Knife Edge, East Ridge of Mount Logan Doug Artman
16 Logan - Lower Knife Edge on East Ridge Jeremy Frimer
13 Logan - East Ridge from Base Camp Jeremy Frimer
12 Logan at Dawn Greg Lane
10 The Final Pinnacle of Mount Logan Main Summit David Henry
10 Logan from Icefield Discovery Camp Greg Lane
8 East Face of Mount Logan and McArthur Peak Edwina Podemski
8 Logan Massif from the Southwest Edwina Podemski
8 Mount Logan Massif - North Side Fred Touche
6 Logan Massif from the Northeast Edwina Podemski
6 Logan - Hummingbird Ridge Jeremy Frimer

Placename Photos
21 Mount Augusta and the Logan Massif Don Funk
19 Mount Logan's East Peak from Hubbard Glacier Fred Touche
15 Ice Avalanche Off Queen Peak in the King Trench, Mount Logan Sandy Briggs
13 Looking Down Logan East Ridge from Just below Upper Knife Edge Jeremy Frimer
11 Mount Logan West Peak and East Peak David Henry
11 Normand Begin on the Summit of Logan David Henry
11 Mount Logan Descent (And Mount Saint Elias) David Henry
9 St. Elias Panorama from the summit of Mount Kennedy Cam Shute
8 Mount Saint Elias and the Malaspina Glacier Kevin Altheim
7 Icefall High on East Ridge of Mount Logan Jeremy Frimer
6 Viewing East Peak while descending from Mount Logan summit David Henry
6 King Trench, Queen Peak, and King Peak from the Air David Henry
4 Descending Logan's East Ridge Doug Artman
4 Logan - Dome Camp on East Ridge Jeremy Frimer
3 Looking Down on Camp 3 on Mount Logan David Henry
3 Camp 2 Mount Logan King Trench David Henry