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Mount Queen Bess  British Columbia   #136
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges

Height: 3298 m -> 10820 feet
Prominence?: 2355 m above Suds Pass
Line Parent?: Mount Waddington (49.6 km away, at bearing 284 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Waddington (49.6 km away)

Location:   51.27139,-124.56817     51:16:17, -124:34:05   10U 390608 5681173NTS Mapsheet: 092.N.07   AreaCode: FM14/CF76
First Ascent: 1942 D. Munday; P. Munday; H. Hall
Mount Queen Bess - South Aspect
This peak is #99 on the Height List for British Columbia . This peak is #12 in Prominence List for British Columbia .Peak is located W. of Franklyn Arm, Chilko Lake, Range 2, Coast Land District. It is an impressive rocky tower which dominates the north end of the Homathko Icefield. The northeast face is still unclimbed and if you ever see a picture of the hanging serac you will understand why.

"Queen Bess" refers to Elizabeth I. Many of the other peaks in the area bear Elizabethan names.

1. Munday Couloir (1942) D. Munday; P. Munday; H. Hall. steep snow, moderate mixed in late season. A couloir on the west face was climbed on the first ascent. Apparently this is the steep couloir at the right side of the west face which leads to the summit icecap. Once spring snow melts there may be some mixed climbing to gain the ridge crest from the upper couloir. Equipment: ice axe & crampons
2. North ridge (1955) E Pigou D Lloyd D Cowie D Fabian J Fabian. mid 5th. The north ridge gives a good ridge climb when in condition. The ridge may gained via a short couloir at the north (left) end of the west face. From the top of the couloir, a low angle but knife edged ridge of loose rock with several small gendarmes leads to the summit icefields. Best when bare of snow. Big exposure down the east face. Equipment: small rack
3. Good Queen Bess (southeast buttress) (1980) M Down, D Serl. IV 5.8 A2. A 15 pitch route up the southeast buttress. Equipment: technical climbing rack
4. West rib (1978) J Bates, Thompson, Andrews, de Visser. mid-5th. Climb the rib just right of the Munday couloir. A long route. Equipment: Ice and rock gear.
5. East Face (August 2005) Bruce Fairley, Harold Redekop. 5.9. Reported as around 15 or 20 pitches with the hardest at 5.9. It seems this route climbed rock rather than the prominent snow/ice line but details are lacking at this time. This face should not be confused with the serac-shadowed NE face which lies to the right. Equipment: Full rock rack and ice gear
6. North ridge integral (1979) P Stoliker, J Knight, D Jarecki, N Heath. mid-5th. The full north ridge beginning from the low col with Essex. First third of the ridge crest is on suspect rock, improving higher. Equipment: snow and rock gear

Trips within 1 km
41 2007.08.05 Good Queen Bess goes free Route Cam Shute
60 2003.08.24 A Visit to the Mantle Glacier: August 24-31 2003 Drew Brayshaw

2004.03.17 Queen Bess Proof Robin Tivy
2004.03.17 Perhaps a lower pass? Mike Cleven
2004.03.17 Pass lower Don Serl

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
18 Fifth Pitch of Southeast Buttress of Mount Queen Bess Cam Shute
14 Queen Bess from the East David Campbell
12 Queen Bess from Northwest Drew Brayshaw
9 Queen Bess East Face from On High Drew Brayshaw
7 Mount Queen Bess - South Aspect Corey Aurala
7 Queen Bess, Upper Northeast Face and Summit John Scurlock
5 Mount Queen Bess - Northeast Aspect Corey Aurala
5 Queen Bess - View North along Summit Ridge John Scurlock
5 Queen Bess Southwest Face and South Buttress John Scurlock
4 Queen Bess South Buttress John Scurlock
4 Queen Bess Northwest Face John Scurlock
4 Queen Bess Upper Northeast Face John Scurlock
3 Queen Bess East Face John Scurlock

Placename Photos
15 West Faces: Success, Lowwa, Reliance, Determination Jordan Peters
6 Eastern End of the Cataract and Sunrise Glaciers Jordan Peters
5 Serac of Doom Drew Brayshaw
5 Looking North towards Mt. Queen Bess (left) Cam Shute
4 Looking South to Homathko Icefield Drew Brayshaw