1. Munday Couloir (1942) D. Munday; P. Munday; H. Hall. steep snow, moderate mixed in late season. A couloir on the west face was climbed on the first ascent. Apparently this is the steep couloir at the right side of the west face which leads to the summit icecap. Once spring snow melts there may be some mixed climbing to gain the ridge crest from the upper couloir.
Equipment: ice axe & crampons
2. North ridge (1955) E Pigou D Lloyd D Cowie D Fabian J Fabian. mid 5th. The north ridge gives a good ridge climb when in condition. The ridge may gained via a short couloir at the north (left) end of the west face. From the top of the couloir, a low angle but knife edged ridge of loose rock with several small gendarmes leads to the summit icefields. Best when bare of snow. Big exposure down the east face.
Equipment: small rack
3. Good Queen Bess (southeast buttress) (1980) M Down, D Serl. IV 5.8 A2. A 15 pitch route up the southeast buttress.
Equipment: technical climbing rack
4. West rib (1978) J Bates, Thompson, Andrews, de Visser. mid-5th. Climb the rib just right of the Munday couloir. A long route.
Equipment: Ice and rock gear.
5. East Face (August 2005) Bruce Fairley, Harold Redekop. 5.9. Reported as around 15 or 20 pitches with the hardest at 5.9. It seems this route climbed rock rather than the prominent snow/ice line but details are lacking at this time. This face should not be confused with the serac-shadowed NE face which lies to the right.
Equipment: Full rock rack and ice gear
6. North ridge integral (1979) P Stoliker, J Knight, D Jarecki, N Heath. mid-5th. The full north ridge beginning from the low col with Essex. First third of the ridge crest is on suspect rock, improving higher.
Equipment: snow and rock gear