Bivouac.com   Mountain Page   Home     Help   Index     Login
Slesse Mountain (Mount Slesse)  British Columbia   #1207
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Slesse Divide

Height: 2429 m -> 7969 feet
Prominence?: 852 m above Hannegan Pass
Line Parent?: Mount Shuksan (21.6 km away, at bearing 181 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Shuksan (22.0 km away)

Location:   49.02561,-121.59799     49:01:32, -121:35:53   10U 602492 5431249 (19 km N of Mount Baker Lodge). (27 km SE of Agassiz). NTS Mapsheet: 092.H.04   AreaCode: EM91/AF29
First Ascent: 1927 Stan Henderson; Mills Winram; Fred Parkes. First winter ascent: February 20, 1955, Fips Broda and John Dudra
Mt Slesse from the east
Note that the actual location of the final peak varies slightly depending on whether you look at Canada Topo or the TRIM data. We use the trim data.

On December 9, 1956 a four-engine DC-4 crashed onto the east side of the summit pinnacle killing all 62 people on board. Because of the severe and then-remote terrain and the thick snows on the Cascades that winter, the wreckage was not found until May 1957 when a group of climbers stumbled upon a navigation map; soon after other relics and remains were found, many months after the flight ceased radio communications and was lost. The area proved too rugged to recover any bodies or wreckage and some is still scattered across the cirques below the peak's east face. The site is now protected by commemorative legislation as a result of the activities of the Families of Slesse organization, who were concerned about inroads by logging operations and souvenir-hunters.

Name Notes: The name "Slesse" is the native name for the peak, and comes from the Halqemeylem word Selóysi, meaning "fang" - obviously very descriptive from nearly any angle.


1. Approach from Nesakwatch Creek FSR Class 5. This is the usual way to get to the northeast buttress route.
2. Approach from Slesse Creek Road As of 2015 you can drive to km 7.1 and the trail has been well cleared the rest of the way.
3. Southwest face (standard route) (August 10, 1927) Stan Henderson, Fred Parkes, Mills Winram. 5.6. Hike Slesse Mountain trail to NW of the peak. Traverse a ledge system across the W face to the upper SW shoulder near a large gendarme and climb up a gully system (5.6) to the summit above. This is the standard descent for all routes: one or two rappels and much class 4 downclimbing and traversing. Equipment: 50m rope, light rock rack (a few chocks)
4. NW face (1959) Fred Beckey, Ed Cooper, Don (Claunch) Gordon. 5.8. From near where the standard route begins to traverse across the W face on ledges, climb straight up to the summit, about a ropelength right of the upper N arete. 4 pitches or so. Equipment: Rock rack; double ropes helpful
5. Northeast buttress (1963) Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad, Steve Marts. TD, V 5.9. Begin at the toe or bypass several pitches with the Bypass start on the south flank, depending on the state of the Bypass Glacier. Climb several pitches to 5.8 to the half-height buttress crest where the rock rears up to vertical. Bypass this on N side by 5.8 ledges, or climb straight up (5.10a direct). Above this, after a 5.8 pitch, reach a nice bivi ledge and several low angle pitches of class 4. The headwall above has several pitches of up to 5.8/5.9. Around 25 to 30 pitches in total with about 15-16 of 5th class. Fast parties climb it in a day. Many "not fast enough" parties become benighted somewhere on the descent trail. See the route report for recent bulletins. Equipment: full rack and possibly bivi gear

Trips within 1 km
23 2013.09.24 Slesse Crossover Trail Tim Argast
26 2009.09.26 North Rib-Slesse Jesse Mason
38 2009.07.10 Slesse Northeast Buttress David Collings
20 2006.06.23 Rogues of the Wild -- North Rib TD 5.9 27 Pitches -- Aaron Lucke
39 2005.07.17 Solar Powered Climbers on East Pillar of Labour Day Summit Drew Brayshaw
38 2004.09.25 Slesse South West Buttress Ryan Allderman
37 2003.07.26 The Flight 810 Buttress At Last - East Buttress of Southeast Pk. Of Slesse Drew Brayshaw
21 2002.08.30 Bamboozled on Slesse Dan Hughes
47 2002.08.05 Weekend Warrior - Four Alpine Climbing Trips Near Chilliwack Drew Brayshaw
15 2001.09.15 Station 'D' Peak Andrew Dunlop
66 2001.08.28 Slesse NE Buttress with Crossover Pass Return Joachim Stadel
23 1999.08.25 How To Fail On the NE Buttress of Slesse and Still Come Out Ahead Drew Brayshaw
14 1999.07.03 Slesse Mountain Trail Pierre Signore
18 1963.08.01 Route: Slesse Northeast Buttress Route Drew Brayshaw
13 null Slesse SE Couloir - New Winter Route Route Drew Brayshaw

Comments
2013.01.18 Height and location notes Robin Tivy
2011.03.31 Some details of 1956 Plane Crash on Slesse Mike Cleven

Paper Maps
1:40000Chilliwack East Recreational Map - GPS Based Trail Ventures BC
 

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
18 Slesse from MacFarlane Gerry Kollmuss
14 Slesse and Chilliwack Area Skyline at Sunrise from West Justin Brown
13 Slesse in Winter - East Side Todd Ponzini
13 Slesse from McGuire Simon Chesterton
12 Slesse from Northwest Pat Graham
9 Slesse Pat Graham
9 Slesse - Southeast Side Drew Brayshaw
8 Slesse in the Clouds Drew Brayshaw
8 Slesse at Sunset Rich Sobel
8 East Face of Slesse Jordon Easton
7 Slesse after a Winter Storm Pat Graham
7 Morning Light on Slesse Mountain Joachim Stadel
7 Slesse Moonset Drew Brayshaw
7 Slesse NE Buttress Summit Pitches Joachim Stadel
6 Morning Light on Slesse East Face Drew Brayshaw
6 Slesse at Dawn Gerry Kollmuss
6 Slesse after Sunset Gerry Kollmuss
5 Slesse and Rexford from Larrabee Stewart Douglas
4 Slesse Northeast Buttress from the Air Scott Pick
4 Slesse South Peak and South Spur Drew Brayshaw
4 Slesse and Bi-Pass Glacier July 22, 2006 Doug Brown (Vancouver)
3 North Rib and Northeast Buttress Aaron Lucke
3 Bivy Ledge on NE Buttress of Slesse Brian Pegg
3 NE Buttress of Slesse Mountain from Bivi Ledge Steven Harng
3 Mt Slesse from the east Hans Bauck
3 Slesse and Labour Day from the Head of Nesakwatch Creek Scott Pick
2 Slesse from Hannegan peak Daeyou Kim
1 New Trail Beta for Approach to Northeast Buttress and Other East Side Climbs Doug Brown (Vancouver)

Placename Photos
12 "Cloud Tide Coming In" in the Chilliwack Valley Drew Brayshaw
10 Slesse Area East Faces Photo Topo Drew Brayshaw
7 Sublimation of the Bypass Glacier Joachim Stadel
7 Ridge from Mount Cope to Middle Peak Mike Hamata
7 Slesse Divide from Mount MacFarlane Greg Jones
6 Rexford and Slesse from MacDonald Peak Marek Labecki
5 Halfway up Flight 810 Buttress, Mt Slesse SE Peak Drew Brayshaw
5 Slesse East Side in Winter Pat Graham
5 Slesse, Border Peaks, Tomyhoi and Baker from Cheam Steve Sproule
5 Slesse Group from Rexford Drew Brayshaw
4 Slesse Divide from Williamson Lake Greg Jones
4 Slesse Mountain Area Fred Touche
3 Slesse Area From West Drew Brayshaw
3 Slesse Mountain: Climbing the Bypass Steven Harng
3 Philosophy on Slesse Mountain Steven Harng
3 Slesse to McGuire from Lady Steve Sproule
3 Retreating From 810 Buttress, Mount Slesse Drew Brayshaw
2 The Grass Is Always Greener On The Other Variation - Slesse NE Buttress Drew Brayshaw
2 The Bypass on Northeast Buttress: View from Crossover Steven Harng