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Blanshard Peak (Blanshard Needle)  British Columbia   #1184
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges

Height: 1550 m -> 5085 feet
Prominence?: 170 m  
Line Parent?: Edge Peak (1.5 km away, at bearing 6 degrees)
Greater Parent: Edge Peak (1.0 km away)

Location:   49.34333,-122.50000     49:20:36, -122:30:00   10U 536319 5465744 (17 km SE of Wigeon Lake). (16 km NE of Maple Ridge). NTS Mapsheet: 092.G.08   AreaCode: EM92/DF40
First Ascent: 1918 P. James, D. Munday, M. Worsley
Blanshard Needle from Edge
A dramatic rock pinnacle in Golden Ears Provincial Park, on the south side of the Golden Ears massif. It's located at the very head of Evans Creek. It can be seen from downtown Vancouver on a clear day. Approach via the Alouette Mountain trail. Hike to the summit of Alouette Mountain, and then downclimb west to reach the south col of Blanshard Peak. Scramble up the steep, rocky south ridge to gain the summit (Class 4).

Name Notes: The Halqemeylem name for Mt. Blanshard is Xi:tselexw. People used to predict the salmon run and weather from the colour of the mountaintop. (Sto:lo Atlas)


1. Approach via Alouette Hiking Trail From Mike Lake take the Alouette hiking trail, and hike to top of Alouette, then look for the way down the cliffs to the Alouette-Blanshard col. As an alternative to hiking all the way up the long Alouette trail, you can use a mountain bike to get to 840m, and then hike up from there.
2. Approach via Evans Peak Trail You can get to the summit of Alouette via the Evans Peak Trail, and then climb down somehow to the Alouette-Blanshard col, and then climb the peak.
3. South Face (standard route) : Class 3-4. The start of the climb can be reached via descending to the col from Alouette Mountain or by a steep north facing gully from the top of Evans Creek. Once you reach the col between Blanshard and Alouette, start climbing. The first 2 pitches from the base of the rock wall are class 4 with a low class 5 crux move or two. Above these pitches, the rest of the climb goes at a rough and sometimes bushy 3rd class scramble. There is one tricky and somewhat exposed notch to negotiate between the false and true summits. Rock quality is not bad.
4. Northwest Ridge : Class 3-4. This route makes for a nice winter climb starting from the top of Evans Creek and ascending a steep rock ramp system to the col on Blanshards north side. From here a steep, blocky and narrow 3rd to 4th class ridge is gained to the summit.
5. West Face : Class 5.6 . The west face is the longest sustained rockclimbing route on this peak at around 10+ pitches to 5.6. From the base of the standard route, drop several hundred feet down a gully to the west, staying close to the cliff walls above. Near the base of the west face wall, begin to climb up trending to the left toward whitish overhanging cliffs. Climb left of these up for several more pitches keeping left of difficulties. The route eventually tops out on the north ridge, about one pitch of class 3 below the summit.
6. North Face : 5th class with potential aid moves. According to most resources this route may still be unclimbed despite attempts. A supposed blank wall exists on the final pitch before the summit. This route can be approached the same way as the north ridge route keeping to the left (south) beneath the north col and negotiating vertical and sometimes loose rock steps and ramps. The final pitch is the difficulty. This is the most vertical side of the peak.

Trips within 1 km
34 2014.08.17 Blanshard Needle by Bike - 2014 Notes Brett Logan
25 2014.08 Blanshard Needle, Wedge, and Hozameen...in a week (Story) Brett Logan
32 2014.03.31 Evans Peak Trail & Alouette Mtn - Routes Brett Logan
48 2013.10.27 Alouette Mountain via the Standard Trail Robin Tivy
24 2012.09.12 Alouette Mountain Hike Harold Wiebe
26 2005.08.05 Blanshard Needle - West Face Ascent Justin Brown
37 2004.08.16 Edge to Blanshard Traverse, down Evans Creek Jesse Mason
18 2004.05.01 Blanshards Needle Kyle Skidmore
52 2002.10.13 Blanshard Needle by Bike Tom Tiedje
29 2002.01.13 Edge Peak South Ridge (almost) Drew Brayshaw
8 null Blanshard - South Ridge Route Drew Brayshaw

Comments
 

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
13 Blanshard South Face Gerry Kollmuss
11 Shadow of the Blanshard Needle Justin Brown
10 Blanshard, the Ears, and a Smidgen of Edge Drew Brayshaw
9 Blanshard Peak from Alouette (October) Robin Tivy
9 Blanshard and Edge from Alouette Justin Brown
9 Blanshard Needle NW Aspect (from Golden Ears in Summer) Justin Brown
8 Blanshard Needle from Edge Drew Brayshaw
7 Blanshard Needle Emanuele Porra
6 Blanshard Needle from Alouette Paul Kubik
5 Blanshard Peak - Southeast Side Fred Touche
4 Ice Tunnel - Fly Gully Justin Brown
3 Blanshard Peak - North Ridge Fred Touche

Placename Photos
7 Evans Peak, Alouette Mountain and Blanshard Peak - North Aspect Justin Brown
6 Edge Peak from the Northwest Anthony Mallinson