1. From Tusk-Irvine Col From Athabasca River, cross Fortress Lake, and follow the Wood River ("a nasty side-hill tree bash, punctuated by avalanche slopes hanging above the river's torrent") to Clemenceau Creek, and so on up to the glacier. Climb to the Tusk/Irvine col. This was the hardest part and then to summit.
[Trip170-Tusk from Athabasca River] (Rick Collier)