| This peak is #2 on the Height List for Alberta . This peak is #38 in Prominence List for Alberta .North Twin is the third highest peak in the Canadian Rockies and is the next door neighbour to Mt. Columbia, the second highest (however, the two are separated by South Twin and the impassable Columbia trench which prevents any possibility of the two being climbed in a single day).
North Twin is not a difficult climb, but the peak is remote and its elevation, as well as its location at the NW terminus of the largest icefield in the Rockies, make it an ascent that requires fitness, preparation, and care. Bad weather is common on the Columbia Icefield and can move in with devastating swiftness and consequences - high winds, cold temperatures, and white-out. Any hint of foul conditions should, generally, be enough to confine one to the pleasures of the tent rather than attempting even the relatively easy slopes of this mountain.|
Interestingly enough, North Twin is often ascended as a side-bar to the ascent of other 11,000' peaks in the area: the approach to Twins Tower requires crossing the summit of North, and both South and West Twin require ascending to a high point on its S ridge only 500' below the summit. On good days an experienced and fit team can climb three of these eleven-thousand foot peaks (North, South, West) in a single outing.
Name Notes: As Glen Boles notes in his book (Place Names of the Canadian Alps), "this pair of substantial, similar-looking summits [North & South] at the north end of the Columbia Icefield was named by Collie, though the ascents of them all came much later than his visit" [Collie climbed and explored in the Rockies during five seasons, variously from 1898 to 1911]. The first ascent of North Twin was recorded in July of 1923 by W.S. Ladd, J.M. Thorington, and C. Kain. Their route - up the E snow/ice face from the 10,600' - is substantially the one used by almost all parties today.