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Ibex Peak  British Columbia   #1104
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Cascade Range / Canadian Cascades

Height: 2039 m -> 6690 feet
Prominence?: 474 m  
Line Parent?: Alpaca Peak (6.4 km away, at bearing 88 degrees)
Greater Parent: Guanaco Peak (9.0 km away)

Location:   49.64770,-121.26038     49:38:52, -121:15:37   10U 625579 5500915 (14 km W of Falls Lake). (27 km SE of Boston Bar). NTS Mapsheet: 092.H.11   AreaCode: EM91/GC46
First Ascent: Friday August 31, 1962 Asger Bentzen, Hamish Mutch, Glenn Woodsworth, Bob Woodsworth
A classically shaped granitic horn of the Anderson River range. Steep on the east side and less so on the west and south aspects. Ibex may not have the huge buttress of neighbouring Steinbok, but it is nonetheless a commanding presence. An easy route scrambles up the N flank. The SE ridge is considered the classic climb (6 p. 5.8 or 5.9); several longer routes climb the E face to the right.


1. NW slopes (1962.08.31) Class 3. The first ascent route. From Chamois-Anderson River Mountain col, traverse Chamois or avoid to W. Scramble up NW flank of Ibex to summit, on class 3 slabs to right of north ridge.
2. SE Ridge (1981) R Barley, P. Shackleton. 5.8 or 5.9. From Steinbok-Ibex col, climb the obvious sharp ridge crest. 6 pitches, lots of potential for variation, with grade depending on line chosen. A little bit of bush. This route is the typical descent off Ibex: rappel (slings around trees) to Ibex-Steinbok col
3. East Ridge/Face (1982) S. and K. Flavelle. 5.10. This route is c. 650m long but the first half up the ridge is not difficult. Where the ridge becomes the face, begin technical portion; climb up grooves and slabs to gain the N ridge just below the summit. Not given a high star rating by the FA party.
4. Trivial Pursuits (1995) C. Brookes, M. Spagnut. 5.10+, 3 pts. of aid. Climb 8 pitches up the face between the Flavelle route and the SE ridge. Finish up last 3 pitches of SE ridge to summit.
5. South Face (Proof Is In The Pudding) (July 2003) D. Barg, D. Brayshaw, S. Neufeld. 5.10c. This route climbs near the center of the south face. Start up right leaning ramp system. Climb thin cracks, hand crack and OW above to flakes then up grassy corner. Finish traversing right to sweet diagonal splitter. 5-6 pitches depending on choice of belay stances. Descend SE ridge to base, 3 60m rappels, one 30m rappel. Equipment: full rack to #4 Camalot; double finger to hand size cams

Trips within 1 km
16 2006.07.06 Chamois Peak - Birth Of An Alpine Addict Mike Warn
36 2003.07.19 The Proof Is In the Pudding -South Face of Ibex Drew Brayshaw
18 1999.09.12 N Buttress of Chamois Jeremy Frimer

Comments
 

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
12 Ibex - Southeast Face and Southeast Ridge Drew Brayshaw
10 Steinbok and Ibex Eastern Aspect Simon Chesterton
6 Steinbok and Ibex Peak from the East Klaus Haring
5 On the Route Springbok Arete from the Top of Pitch 6 Ulysse Richard
4 Les Cornes and Ibex - East Side Jeremy Frimer

Placename Photos
12 Chamois and Ibex from Anderson Simon Chesterton
9 Steinbok and Ibex Peaks Martin Ortmayr
9 Gamuza, Steinbok and Chamois in Winter Simon Chesterton
7 Les Cornes and Springbok Arete From Ibex Drew Brayshaw
7 Western Anderson River Peaks From Gamuza Drew Brayshaw
6 Anderson River Group from Needle Peak Steve Sproule
6 Anderson River Panorama (Labelled) From West Drew Brayshaw
6 Anderson Group Cloudshadows Drew Brayshaw
5 Proof Is In The Pudding - Pitch 3 Drew Brayshaw
5 South Face of Ibex Drew Brayshaw
4 Western Anderson Range Peaks from road Tyler Linn
3 Proof Is In The Pudding - Pitch 5 Drew Brayshaw
3 Proof Is In The Pudding - Pitch Two Drew Brayshaw
2 Summit of Alpaca Drew Brayshaw