Cayoosh Mountain British Columbia #1050
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Lillooet Ranges / Cayoosh Range / Cayoosh Range West
Height: 2561 m -> 8402 feet
Prominence?: 671 m above Seven Mile-Cayoosh Pass
Line Parent?: Mount Marriott (5.8 km away, at bearing 10 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Marriott (5.8 km away)
Location: 50.40222,-122.52389 50:24:08, -122:31:26 10U 533836 5583461 (14 km W of Duffey Lake). (22 km NE of Pemberton). NTS Mapsheet: 092.J.07 AreaCode: FM02/EF02
|Located in the western Cayoosh Range, between Joffre Creek (Duffey Lake road) and the Birkenhead-Gates corridor. It is east of the Place Glacier peaks. Pronounced "Ki-oosh", "i" as in "I am a climber". "oosh" as in "whoosh, the sound of an avalanche". Cayoosh Mountain is a large partially glaciated peak. It is not the highest peak in the Cayoosh range, both Marriot Peak and Mount Seton are higher. Cayoosh Mountain can have large cornices which can be accidentally set off to come whooshing down on the eastern approaches. In general, once east of the divide, the snow becomes drier and more prone to avalanches, requiring more caution.
Name Notes: Cayoosh is a variation of Cayuse, the native name for Pony. One story is that a native was riding his horse from Mount Currie to Lillooet and the horse dropped dead at Cayoosh Creek. Once the creek had that name, the name Cayoosh was applied to the peak at the head of the creek. The range was then given the same name, but unfortunately the peak is not the highest in the range.
1. Cayoosh - East Face (Winter) This is the normal winter route. Approach from the Duffy Lake road and via logging roads to the Cayoosh Cabin. From the cabin, head west through open forest and then continue west up the left side of a long avalanche slope to reach the basin and then pocket glacier east of the summit. Near the head of the glacier, go north across a gap and immediately start climbing the east face of the summit block. Ascend 40-degree snow to gain the south ridge just south of the summit. Follow the south ridge to the summit. See route map.
2. Cayoosh - South Ridge from East (Summer) Class 3. Approach by driving to the end of Upper Cayoosh FSR (see Cayoosh Mountain Road and using a flagged route leading to lake GR357823 on 92 J/7 (second edition) and continuing to lake GR343816. Gain South Ridge by ascending meadow and scree to gap on ridge at GR339825. Follow ridge to summit by scrambling good rock and loose couloir.
Distance: 1300m elevation gain
AvgTime: 8 hours,
3. Cayoosh Southwest Ridge from West (Summer) (2004.07.17) Laurent Mingo. Scramble. Route goes from the Place Glacier parking lot up to the small lake on the SW side of the south ridge, then crosses over the western arm of the ridge to approach the peak. See details in Laurent Mingo's report.
Equipment: Ice axe, helmet
AvgTime: 2 days
4. North Ridge from Cayoosh-Marriott Col (200) Robin Shier, Robert Riecken. Class 3. From the lake in the Cayoosh-Marriott col (at 352849) 6300 ft, ascend meadows and traverse north slopes to gain the glacier. Ascend glacier to gain ridge at 338843: 8100 ft. Follow ridge crest (class 3) south to summit 340833: 8500 ft. 5 hours return from 356862.
AvgTime: 5 hours
5. SW Ridge (1978) H. Rode and party. Scrambling, NTD. Climb the spur road in N Joffre Creek until reaching a small basin with a tarn, as on maps. Follow SW Ridge to summit.
Trips within 1 km
54 2004.07.17 Cayoosh Southwest Ridge Laurent Mingo
9 2000.01.22 Southeast Bowl of Cayoosh Mountain - Again Mitch Sulkers
20 1999.05.15 Cayoosh Mountain - An unfortunate Knee Injury Pierre Signore
|Subject Photos View Thumbnails|
16 Cayoosh from Upper Joffre Lake Gareth Evans
16 Cayoosh Mountain: North Glacier Touring Mitch Sulkers
11 Cayoosh Mountain From Upper Joffre Lake Drew Brayshaw
11 Cayoosh Mountain, Northeast Face Lukas Chrostowski
10 Cayoosh Mountain, North Glacier Avalanche Mitch Sulkers
8 East Bowl of Cayoosh--February 2004 Mitch Sulkers
8 Spring Has Sprung on Cayoosh Mountain Greg Jones
7 Cayoosh Mountain - Southwest Face Greg Jones
7 Cayoosh Mountain Paul Kubik
7 Cayoosh mountain Stewart Douglas
6 Marriott Basin hike 51 (Zoe & Cayoosh Mt) Cliff Jennings
6 Sweet Turns on Cayoosh Greg Jones
5 Marriott Basin hike 45 pan (Joffre to Cayoosh above Lake) Cliff Jennings
5 Cayoosh Mountain Fracture Line. Laurent Mingo
4 Cayoosh from Vantage Ridge jamie May
4 Cayoosh Mountain and the Three Joffre Lakes Lucas Earl
3 Cayoosh Mountain from Stonecrop Glacier Serguei Okountsev
3 Cayoosh Mountain Access Don Funk
3 Bowls West of Cayoosh Mountain Lee Lau
3 Early Season Look at the East-facing Bowls Guarding Cayoosh Lee Lau
2 Cayoosh Mountain from Lower Joffre Lake Lee Lau
11 The Western Cayoosh and Joffre from Matier Summit Mitch Sulkers
10 Marriott Basin hike 68 (Mushroom Cloud from Forest Fire flareup 03) Cliff Jennings
9 Joffre Group from the North (Cayoosh Mountain) Mitch Sulkers
9 Saxifrage Mountain from Cayoosh Mountain Don Funk
8 Cayoosh and Marriott from Tszil Simon Chesterton
5 Joffre Group from the Northwest Don Funk
4 Cayoosh Mountain Summit Fred Touche
4 Powder Hunting Jordan Peters
4 Cayoosh and Joffre group from Marriot Basin Martin Berka
3 Western Cayoosh Range Fred Touche