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Sir Donald Range
Parent Area: Duncan Ranges
 

Area: 72 sq km.Location: Located south and east of Rogers Pass are the beautiful and historic peaks of the Sir Donald range. The range is bounded by the Beaver River on the east, Connaught Creek on the north, the Illecillewaet River on the west and the Illecillewaet neve to the south. Terrain: A wide selection of routes, almost all of which are on rock, can be found in the Sir Donald Range. The reason for this is that the entire range is composed of the pale blocky quartzite of the Hamill group which is amazing to climb. From class 3's like the Southwest face of Avalanche peak to the alpine wall of the 'Little Face' (North face of the Northwest shoulder) on Mt MacDonald at V,5.8,A3. But the most sought after and heavily visited route would be the Northwest ridge of Mt Sir Donald III,5.2, it is ranked as one of the 50 classic climbs of North America. Both David Jones' book Selkirks South and John Kevin Fox's book the Columbia Mountains of Canada - Central give excellent descriptions of all the major routes on all the peaks in the range.

History: The Sir Donald range not only figures in the very earliest history of Canadian mountaineering, but it also figures prominently in the history of Canada. It was from the slopes of Avalanche Crest that Major A.B. Rogers discovered the pass that now bears his name in May 1881 and set the course for the C.P.R. After the construction of the railroad the sharp pyramid of Mt Sir Donald was a much sought after first ascent, climbed by Emil Huber and Carl Sulzer with Harry Cooper as porter on July 26, 1890. Some of the peaks were also ascended by Arthur Oliver Wheeler during his historical surveys of the Selkirk range.

Top Trips
What A Wonderful World: Climbing Mount Sir Donald and Uto Peak Sandra McGuinness
Kootenays Road Trip and Three Alpine Meadow Trips Robin Tivy
A Grand Excursion: The Abbott Afton Traverse Sandra McGuinness
Long Day on the Northwest ArÍte of Sir Donald Michael Stanton
Asulkan Traverse Ross Mailloux
Climbing Avalanche Mountain and Eagle Peak Sandra McGuinness
Avalanche Mountain - Southwest Face Lee Shepherd
Back to Rogers Pass Lee Shepherd
Avalanche Mountain Southwest Ridge Jason Dixon
Sir Donald in a Day (from Calgary) Orvel Miskiw
More Trips

Top Photos
Mount Sir Donald's Super Classic Northwest Ridge Jason Dixon
Eagle Peak from West Steve Sproule
Mount Sir Donald and Avalanche Peak from Mount Rogers Dave Sproule
Mount MacDonald North Face Jason Dixon
Mount Sir Donald David Wasserman
Uto Peak Lee Shepherd
North Face of Mount MacDonald Jeff Volp
Sir Donald West Face and Waterfall Drew Brayshaw
Terminal Peak from the East Dean Richards
Avalanche Mountain from the Southeast Dean Richards
More Photos

Alpine Journal Articles
1907 A Day On Sir Donald Frank W Freeborn
Paper Maps