Devils Thumb Northwest Face

A spectacular rock spire on the BC-Alaska border, the Thumb is regarded as one of the most desirable and difficult climbs of the Coast Mountains. The standard route up the east ridge requires 5.8 climbing (either by the original Beckey line or via the Culbert/Douglas/Starr direct variation [see 50 Classic Climbs]). The north face is infamously 2000m high, vertical, mixed rock and ice, and unclimbed despite 30 years of attempts from some of North America and Europe's strongest climbers. In the spring of 2003, well-known Canadian mountaineers Guy Edwards and John Millar disappeared during a North Face attempt.

USGS gives 9077' (2767m).

Trip Reports

Subject Trips

Journal Articles
Stikine Territory Dick Culbert
The Cat's Ears Paul Starr 

Placename Photos
15 Burkett, Burkett Needle, Devil's Thumb From North John Scurlock
9 Burkett Needle and Devil's Thumb John Scurlock